25554, First Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
1986–1987. Variations of Model 25554 (39 mm). Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar presented in the 1986–87 Audemars Piguet Catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
April 5, 1984. Press release for the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. The press release is accompanied by a photograph of the steel model. The first Royal Oak 25554 was delivered in December in gold, followed by the first steel models in February 1985.
Circa 1984. List of Model 5402ST watches cased up as Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 5554ST (or 25554). Audemars Piguet Archives
1972, 1984 and 1987. Profile view of Royal Oak Models 5402ST, 25554ST and 25654. Pictured at the top, Model 5402 is distinguished by its extreme thinness (7.1 mm). Shown in the middle, the 25554ST uses the same caseback, but its bezel is raised to accommodate a perpetual calendar (7.5 mm). The lowest-pictured Model 25654 boasts improved water-resistance and measures 8.3 mm. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 365, 455 and 1608.
1972, 1984 and 1987. Cross-section views of Royal Oak Models 5402ST, 25554ST and 25654 Pictured at the top, Model 5402 is distinguished by its extreme thinness (7.1 mm). Shown in the middle, the 25554ST uses the same fused case middle and caseback, but its bezel is raised to accommodate a perpetual calendar (7.5 mm). The lowest-pictured Model 25654 (.3 mm) boasts improved water-resistance. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1996. Technical data for Models 25554 and 25654 . Produced for the watchmakers of the Audemars Piguet After-Sales Service, this document sets out the main differences in case construction between Models 25554 and 25654. Audemars Piguet Archives. .
1978–1996. Calibre 2120/2800, dial-side view. Thinnest selfwinding perpetual calendar of its era (3.95 mm): day, date, month, moon phases. Movement 386456, produced in 1995. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 2010.
On April 5, 1984, the opening day of the Basel Fair, Audemars Piguet presented the very first Royal Oak with a perpetual calendar, Model 5554, soon renamed 25554. The press kit was illustrated by a steel model. However, it was not until December that the only model delivered that year was recorded in the Production Registers, and it was in yellow gold.
The fact that the development of Model 25554 took longer than expected was notably because the watchmakers had set themselves the objective of fitting Calibre 2120/2800 (3.95 mm thick) into the same extra-thin case as the Royal Oak 5402, which until then housed Calibre 2121 (3.05 mm). To achieve this, the bezel was slightly raised, the sapphire crystal was trimmed, and three places were created to accommodate the three calendar correctors. As a result, Model 25554 is only 7.5 mm, thick, i.e. barely 0.4 mm thicker than Model 5402.
Production of each of the 270 or so units delivered required a high level of expertise in terms of case adjustment. Faced with growing demand, the watchmakers decided to rework the inner case structure so as to optimise its water resistance. Presented in 1987, Model 25654 is aesthetically identical to its predecessor, with the exception of its case, which is 8.3 mm thick.
The development of the first years, the adjustments, and the later transformation of a significant number of Royal Oak Model 25554 watches into Model 25654 iterations makes it tricky to analyse the archives, meaning that the figures given below are likely to evolve from time to time as discoveries are made.
Sales from 1984 to 1992 in all materials: an approximate total of 270 units, of which 1 (1984), 146 (1985), 104 (1986), 16 (1987), 1 (1989), 5 (1990) and 1 (1992).
Derived models: 25624 (1985), 25654 (1987) and its derived versions.
On April 5, 1984, the opening day of the Basel Fair, Audemars Piguet presented the very first Royal Oak with a perpetual calendar, Model 5554, soon renamed 25554. The press kit was illustrated by a steel model. However, it was not until December that the only model delivered that year was recorded in the Production Registers, and it was in yellow gold.
The fact that the development of Model 25554 took longer than expected was notably because the watchmakers had set themselves the objective of fitting Calibre 2120/2800 (3.95 mm thick) into the same extra-thin case as the Royal Oak 5402, which until then housed Calibre 2121 (3.05 mm). To achieve this, the bezel was slightly raised, the sapphire crystal was trimmed, and three places were created to accommodate the three calendar correctors. As a result, Model 25554 is only 7.5 mm, thick, i.e. barely 0.4 mm thicker than Model 5402.
Production of each of the 270 or so units delivered required a high level of expertise in terms of case adjustment. Faced with growing demand, the watchmakers decided to rework the inner case structure so as to optimise its water resistance. Presented in 1987, Model 25654 is aesthetically identical to its predecessor, with the exception of its case, which is 8.3 mm thick.
The development of the first years, the adjustments, and the later transformation of a significant number of Royal Oak Model 25554 watches into Model 25654 iterations makes it tricky to analyse the archives, meaning that the figures given below are likely to evolve from time to time as discoveries are made.
Sales from 1984 to 1992 in all materials: an approximate total of 270 units, of which 1 (1984), 146 (1985), 104 (1986), 16 (1987), 1 (1989), 5 (1990) and 1 (1992).
Derived models: 25624 (1985), 25654 (1987) and its derived versions.
Circa 1984. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25554ST. Perpetual calendar: day, date, month and moon phases. Ultra-thin calibre 2120/2800 (3.95 mm). Bracelet 344. Silver-toned dial. Case D1486, 39 mm, no. 37 (the 50 cases 25554ST were derived from the D series, model 5402ST). Prototype without movement presented at the model's launch. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 455.
Circa 1984. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25554ST. The case bears number D1494 drawn from Model 5402, as well as the number 45, from Model 25554. Perpetual Calendar: day, date, month and moon phases. Extra-thin Calibre 2120/2800 (3.95 mm), movement 273849. Bracelet 344. Silver-toned dial. 39 mm case. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 2142.
1985. Identification image of the Royal Oak 25554ST, black dial. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1985. Technical data for the case of Royal Oak Model 25554ST. Audemars Piguet Archives.
April 1984. The photograph accompanying the press kit for the first Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Model 25554 shows a dial with shiny-rimmed counters. Audemars Piguet Archives
Circa 1984–1985. Identification image of Model 25554ST. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1986–1987. First appearance in the catalogue of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Model 25554ST (39 mm). 1986–1987 Audemars Piguet Catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1985. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25554ST. Perpetual calendar: day, date, month and moon phases. Calibre 2120/2800, extra-thin (3.95273841 mm), original movement. Bracelet 344. Silver-toned dial. 39 mm case B292282, D1495, no. 46. Sold to Fintime (Italy) in December 1985. Auctioned for CHF 680,400 by Phillips on May 6, 2022 in Geneva. Image © Phillips
1985. Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25554ST. Perpetual calendar: day, date, month and moon phases. Calibre 2120/2800, extra-thin (3.95 mm), original Movement 273841. Bracelet 344. Silver-toned dial. 39 mm case B292282, D1495, no. 46. Sold to Fintime (Italy) in December 1985. Auctioned for CHF 680,400 by Phillips on May 6,2022 in Geneva. Image © Phillips
Only 46 examples of Model 25554 in steel were delivered. All were fitted with cases originally made for the 5402ST series D model and then adapted to accommodate the 2120/2800 perpetual calendar calibre. Consequently, the cases bear both the 5402ST serial number (D1449 onwards) and the small number 25554 (from 1 to 50, not all numbers being allocated).
The steel variant is the only one to appear in the Model 25554 press kit in 1984. The photograph of the watch shows a grey dial with shiny counter rims. However, it was not until 1985 that the first steel models were delivered. Their dial is matt grey. The first known instance of a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar dial with shiny counter rims is a Model 25654 from the late 1980s.
On the 1985 Case Technical Data, the watch is adorned with a rare black dial, which former Audemars Piguet watchmakers fondly remember as being both superb and fragile.
Sales from 1985 to 1990: a total of 46 units, of which 45 (1985) and 1 (1990).
Only 46 examples of Model 25554 in steel were delivered. All were fitted with cases originally made for the 5402ST series D model and then adapted to accommodate the 2120/2800 perpetual calendar calibre. Consequently, the cases bear both the 5402ST serial number (D1449 onwards) and the small number 25554 (from 1 to 50, not all numbers being allocated).
The steel variant is the only one to appear in the Model 25554 press kit in 1984. The photograph of the watch shows a grey dial with shiny counter rims. However, it was not until 1985 that the first steel models were delivered. Their dial is matt grey. The first known instance of a Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar dial with shiny counter rims is a Model 25654 from the late 1980s.
On the 1985 Case Technical Data, the watch is adorned with a rare black dial, which former Audemars Piguet watchmakers fondly remember as being both superb and fragile.
Sales from 1985 to 1990: a total of 46 units, of which 45 (1985) and 1 (1990).
1985. Royal Oak Model 5554BA (or 25554BA), 39 mm. 1985 Audemars Piguet Catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1985. Identification image of Model 25554BA. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1985. Identification image of Model 25554BA. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1986–1987. Royal Oak Model 25554BA (39mm). 1986–1987 Audemars Piguet Catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1985. Technical data for case 25554. Audemars Piguet Archives.
The very first and only example of Model 25554 delivered in 1984 was housed in a yellow gold case and bore small case number 17. The following year, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar made its official appearance in the Audemars Piguet Catalogue, exclusively in its yellow gold version. That year, 101 units were sold.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in yellow gold was by far the most important variant in terms of quantity, with a total of 223 units delivered, compared with 46 in steel and just one in platinum.
Sales from 1984 to 1992: an approximate total of 223 units, of which 1 (1984), 101 (1985), 103 (1986), 16 (1987), 1 (1989) and 1 (1992)
The very first and only example of Model 25554 delivered in 1984 was housed in a yellow gold case and bore small case number 17. The following year, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar made its official appearance in the Audemars Piguet Catalogue, exclusively in its yellow gold version. That year, 101 units were sold.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in yellow gold was by far the most important variant in terms of quantity, with a total of 223 units delivered, compared with 46 in steel and just one in platinum.
Sales from 1984 to 1992: an approximate total of 223 units, of which 1 (1984), 101 (1985), 103 (1986), 16 (1987), 1 (1989) and 1 (1992)
Circa 1986. Identification image of Model 25554PT. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1986. Identification image of Model 25554PT. Audemars Piguet Archives.
A search through the Production Registers revealed only one Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25554PT, sold to a client in Germany in 1986.
The subtle gleam of the platinum is enhanced by a deep metallic blue dial.
A search through the Production Registers revealed only one Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25554PT, sold to a client in Germany in 1986.
The subtle gleam of the platinum is enhanced by a deep metallic blue dial.
