4187, First gemset Jumbo Royal Oak
Circa 1980. Royal Oak 4187BC Model in its white gold variation. Audemars Piguet 1981–1982 and 1985 catalogues. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1980. Royal Oak 4187BA Model in its yellow gold variation. Audemars Piguet 1981–1982 and 1985 catalogues. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1979–1980. Excerpt from Register 5402. This list documents four transformations of watches from 5402BC to 4187BC. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1977. Orders for the first 5402 gemset gilded dials. The introduction of precious materials in the Royal Oak 5402 was accompanied by the creation of a multitude of dials, a significant proportion of which were for the 5402BC and 4187 gemset variations. The Model 2907 order corresponds to the 25 gilded dials (described here as "brown") with an AP monogram at 6 o'clock. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1979. Technical Data Sheet for the case of Royal Oak 4187BA-BC. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Between 1979 and 1991, Audemars Piguet transformed 19 examples of Model 5402 by gemsetting the bezel rim. The addition of 64 diamonds (eight per side) changed the reference of the watches to 4187.
This particular practice is comparable to the transformation of Model 4100 into the gemset 4153 (1978) or 4275 (1981) variations. While watches change reference, they maintain the small number of their original model (in this instance 5402). Thus, for example, one of the Model 4187BC watches bears the number 134 (from the 5402BC series), although the total production of this reference probably does not exceed 10 pieces. In fact, 4187 watches are included in the Model 5402 register.
The first four white gold watches were sold on November 13, 1979. The yellow gold versions followed in January 1980. The model remained in the Audemars Piguet catalogue from 1981 to 1985. The two variants shown here have a dial with gemset hour-markers and baton-type hands, unlike the one on the Case Technical Data Sheet, which has a dial identical to Model 5402ST.
Derived from Model 5402
Total production: 19 watches in all, including 10 in white gold and 9 in yellow gold.
Between 1979 and 1991, Audemars Piguet transformed 19 examples of Model 5402 by gemsetting the bezel rim. The addition of 64 diamonds (eight per side) changed the reference of the watches to 4187.
This particular practice is comparable to the transformation of Model 4100 into the gemset 4153 (1978) or 4275 (1981) variations. While watches change reference, they maintain the small number of their original model (in this instance 5402). Thus, for example, one of the Model 4187BC watches bears the number 134 (from the 5402BC series), although the total production of this reference probably does not exceed 10 pieces. In fact, 4187 watches are included in the Model 5402 register.
The first four white gold watches were sold on November 13, 1979. The yellow gold versions followed in January 1980. The model remained in the Audemars Piguet catalogue from 1981 to 1985. The two variants shown here have a dial with gemset hour-markers and baton-type hands, unlike the one on the Case Technical Data Sheet, which has a dial identical to Model 5402ST.
Derived from Model 5402
Total production: 19 watches in all, including 10 in white gold and 9 in yellow gold.
1979. Royal Oak 4187BA No. 399 Date. Calibre 2121, movement 197643. Gemset T21 Tapisserie dial. Bracelet 344. 39 mm case B34725 no. 399 (consecutive number 5402BA) in 18-carat yellow gold. Sold to Darcal (Swiss market) in July 1977. Transformation of Model 5402BA into Model 4187BC not documented, but probably done in the Audemars Piguet workshops. Pygmalion collection.
Only nine examples of Model 4187 in yellow gold appear in the Audemars Piguet registers. The watches were sold between 1980 and 1985. As with the white gold variation, the German market accounted for more than half of the sales.
The Royal Oak 4187BA No. 637 was sold in Africa in 1983. Thirty years later, it was presented at the Antiquorum spring sale in Hong Kong but did not find a buyer. Six months later it was auctioned in the same city by Christie's and finally sold for less than USD 15,000. At that time, neither the world of collectors nor the Audemars Piguet Heritage team in Le Brassus were aware of the watch's rarity, let alone its link with Model 5402.
A total of 9 watches were sold from 1980 and 1985, including 6 (1980), 1 (1981), 1 (1983) and 1 (1985).
Only nine examples of Model 4187 in yellow gold appear in the Audemars Piguet registers. The watches were sold between 1980 and 1985. As with the white gold variation, the German market accounted for more than half of the sales.
The Royal Oak 4187BA No. 637 was sold in Africa in 1983. Thirty years later, it was presented at the Antiquorum spring sale in Hong Kong but did not find a buyer. Six months later it was auctioned in the same city by Christie's and finally sold for less than USD 15,000. At that time, neither the world of collectors nor the Audemars Piguet Heritage team in Le Brassus were aware of the watch's rarity, let alone its link with Model 5402.
A total of 9 watches were sold from 1980 and 1985, including 6 (1980), 1 (1981), 1 (1983) and 1 (1985).
1981. Royal Oak 4187BC (1979), N° 134. Date. Calibre 2121. Bracelet 344. 18-carat white gold case, bezel and bracelet, bezel set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds. 11 diamond-set hour-markers. Sold at UHG (Germany) on 28 January 1981. Sold at auction at Phillips in Geneva on 6 November 2020, lot 16. © Picture Phillips.
1981. Royal Oak 4187BC (1979), N° 134 Date. Calibre 2121. Bracelet 344. 18-carat white gold case, bezel and bracelet, bezel set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds. 11 diamond-set hour-markers. Sold at UHG (Germany) on 28 January 1981. Sold at auction at Phillips in Geneva on 6 November 2020, lot 16. ©Picture Phillips.
1981. Royal Oak 4187BC (1979), N° 134 and its papers Date. Calibre 2121. Bracelet 344. 18-carat white gold case, bezel and bracelet, bezel set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds. 11 diamond-set hour-markers. Sold at UHG (Germany) on 28 January 1981. Sold at auction at Phillips in Geneva on 6 November 2020, lot 16. ©Picture Phillips.
1982. Royal Oak 4187BC No. 148 Date. Calibre 2121, movement 213550. Gemset grey dial, probably original but not documented on this model. Case B43485 no. 148 (consecutive number of Model 5402BC) in 18-carat white gold. Diamond-set bezel and bevel. Sold to Brandt Frères (Paris) in December 1982. Caseback engraved with the inscription FRED. Pygmalion Collection.
The first eight models of Model 4187BC were sold between 1979 and 1983. Five of them were destined for the German market (1979–1981). The other three went to Switzerland (1979), France (1982) and Dubai (1983). In 1985 and 1991, two more were created at the request of private clients.
Sold in Germany in January 1981, number 134 was presented at auction on November 6, 2020 by Phillips Geneva. Although estimated at between CHF 50,000 and 80,000, the watch was sold for more than CHF 150,000.
A total of 19 watches were sold from 1979 to 1991, including: 3 (1979), 1 (1980), 2 (1981), 1 (1982), 1 (1983), 1 (1985) and 1 (1991).
The first eight models of Model 4187BC were sold between 1979 and 1983. Five of them were destined for the German market (1979–1981). The other three went to Switzerland (1979), France (1982) and Dubai (1983). In 1985 and 1991, two more were created at the request of private clients.
Sold in Germany in January 1981, number 134 was presented at auction on November 6, 2020 by Phillips Geneva. Although estimated at between CHF 50,000 and 80,000, the watch was sold for more than CHF 150,000.
A total of 19 watches were sold from 1979 to 1991, including: 3 (1979), 1 (1980), 2 (1981), 1 (1982), 1 (1983), 1 (1985) and 1 (1991).
