A distant descendant of the watchmaking guild hallmarks of the 17^th century, the Swiss Made indication guarantees the quality of watches bearing it. Protected by an ordinance since 1971, it complements the numbers engraved on the watches and their movements; the multiple hallmarks (precious material, dial-maker, case-maker, bracelet, etc.); the engravings relating to the number of jewels; and of course the dial signature.

On Audemars Piguet dials, the indication of origin gradually established itself. In the 19^th century, "Le Brassus" occasionally appeared beneath the trademark. From the 1930s to the late 1960s, this same position was often occupied by the "Genève" toponym, a reminder that Audemars Piguet had a complications workshop in this city. As for the name SWISS appearing in small letters below the hour-marker at 6 o'clock, it progressively asserted itself from the 1920s onwards. By the 1970s, it had become the norm – so much so that all the first Royal Oak watches were fitted with it.

Over time, dials develop a patina. They can become scratched and oxidised. The dial restorers then suggest “refurbishing” them, an operation which consists in dismantling the appliques, removing the paint, the varnish and the colour, as well as the oxidation. The dial is then given a facelift that involves redoing the electroplating, transfers and repositioning the refurbished hour-markers, while the guilloché work on the Tapisserie pattern is never touched up.

While the "refurbishment operations" comply with the original techniques and aesthetics, they sometimes show traces of the period in which they were performed. For example, the SWISS indication that appeared below the 6 o’clock hour-marker until around 1985 was replaced from that date onwards (approximately) by a SWISS MADE indication. This minor change, to which contemporaries probably did not attach any particular importance, has become an important criterion for collectors in the valuation of watches, as has the position of the applied AP monogram.

The reason is simple. When a dial bears the indication "SWISS MADE", it means that it was either completed or refreshed after the mid-1980s. The Audemars Piguet Heritage team has scoured the archives and tapped former employees’ memories at length in order to find the reason for this change. It seems to be simply aesthetic: the two words SWISS and MADE on either side of the hour-markers at 6 o’clock help balance the dial.

It should also be noted that the SWISS MADE indication may have appeared on 5402 watches when they were first marketed, as the last 133 examples were sold between 1985 and 2002.

Related content