5402, FIRST ROYAL OAK MODEL
1972. Royal Oak 5402ST identification picture taken at its launch Audemars Piguet Archives.
1972. Royal Oak advertisement The argument is built around the theme of steel, in an echo to the ad's graphical construction which sheds light onto the octagonal shape of the bezel. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1972. Royal Oak 5402ST illustration. Illustration from a promotional brochure presenting the 5402ST Royal Oak in its first watch box. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1972. Royal Oak showcase Three examples of Model 5402 as well as two dedicated watch boxes are exhibited on a finely brushed curved aluminum setting. September 1972, Comptoir Suisse, Lausanne, Audemars Piguet Archives.
Designed in one night by Gérald Genta, the first Royal Oak model was presented in 1972 at the Basel Fair, after two years of development. This extraordinary watch elevated steel to a new status. By introducing the notion of "casual chic", it opened a chapter in the history of Audemars Piguet and Haute Horlogerie. In 1977, it was available for the first time in precious materials: yellow gold, white gold and two-tone.
Model 5402 will be described in detail in the articles dedicated to its case, bracelet and dial variants. Other articles will be dedicated to its numbering, its calibre, its transformation into a collection and the history of the "Jumbo" models.
Originally planned as a run of 1,000 units, Model 5402 was eventually produced in 6,050 units, sold between 1972 and 2002.
Models derived from 5402: 4187 (1979); 4276 (1981).
Other Royal Oak "Jumbo" variations with date: 14802 (1992), 15002 (1996), 15202 (2000), 15128 (2003), 15201 (2011), 15205 (2015), 16202 (2022).
Designed in one night by Gérald Genta, the first Royal Oak model was presented in 1972 at the Basel Fair, after two years of development. This extraordinary watch elevated steel to a new status. By introducing the notion of "casual chic", it opened a chapter in the history of Audemars Piguet and Haute Horlogerie. In 1977, it was available for the first time in precious materials: yellow gold, white gold and two-tone.
Model 5402 will be described in detail in the articles dedicated to its case, bracelet and dial variants. Other articles will be dedicated to its numbering, its calibre, its transformation into a collection and the history of the "Jumbo" models.
Originally planned as a run of 1,000 units, Model 5402 was eventually produced in 6,050 units, sold between 1972 and 2002.
Models derived from 5402: 4187 (1979); 4276 (1981).
Other Royal Oak "Jumbo" variations with date: 14802 (1992), 15002 (1996), 15202 (2000), 15128 (2003), 15201 (2011), 15205 (2015), 16202 (2022).
1972. Royal Oak 5402ST No. A26 Calibre 2121, movement 127059. Bracelet 344, T21 Tapisserie dial. Case 67026, 39 mm. Steel. Sold to Gameo in 1972. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 365.
1972. Royal Oak 5402ST No. A32 Calibre 2121, movement 127064. Bracelet 344. T21 Tapisseriedial. Case 67032, 39 mm. Steel. Sold to Gameo in 1972. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1135.
1972. Technical Data Sheet for the case of Royal Oak Model 5402ST Audemars Piguet Archives.
1973. Royal Oak 5402ST Model (39 mm) Audemars Piguet 1973–1974 catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1974. Royal Oak 5402ST Model (39 mm) Audemars Piguet 1974 catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1981–1985. Royal Oak 5402ST Model (39 mm) Audemars Piguet 1981–1982, 1984 and 1985 catalogues. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1986–1988. Royal Oak 5402ST Model (39 mm) Audemars Piguet 1987–1988 catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1979. Royal Oak 5402ST No. C1709 Calibre 2121, movement no. 197186, bracelet 344, T21 Tapisserie dial. The AP monogram at 12 o'clock is contemporary with the birth of the watch, but the SWISS MADE transfer is the result of a refurbishment carried out starting in the 1980s. 39 mm steel case B3709. Sold in Switzerland in February 1979. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1191.
1972. Folding clasp, Royal Oak 5402ST A26 Gay Frères signature. First batch "1–72". Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 365.
Main components of the 5402 monocoque case The primary structure of the Royal Oak is composed of two elements: the bezel and the fused caseback and case middle. The latter also includes the lugs and even the first bracelet links. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 365.
1972. First Royal Oak bracelet This bracelet 344 adorns the Royal Oak 5402ST A26 series, case 67026, movement 127059, delivered by Audemars Piguet to the Swiss market (Gameo Lausanne) on June 16, 1972. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 365.
Between 1972 and 1976, the Royal Oak 5402 was the only Royal Oak produced by Audemars Piguet, available in a single material and with a single dial. In four years, this radical model made its mark on the world before being rolled out from 1976 onwards in one of the most prolific collections in watchmaking history.
The 5402ST remained in the catalogue for 15 years.
Total number of watches sold: 4,288.
Series A: n° A1–A1999. Total sales 1,937 watches. 490 (1972), 543 (1973), 614 (1974), 243 (1975), 7 (1976), 13 (1977), 4 (1978), 6 (1979), 10 (1980), 2 (1981), 2 (1982), 1 (1983), 1 (1984), 1 (1989)
Numbering: 1–2000
Series B: n° B1001–B2000. Total sales: 845 watches. 228 (1975), 569 (1976), 23 (1977), 3 (1978), 7 (1979), 7 (1980), 4 (1981), 1 (1986), 1 (1987), 1 (1992), 1 (1993)
Numbering: 1000–2000
Series C: n° C1001–1973. Total sales: 952 watches. 10 (1976), 459 (1977), 234 (1978), 223 (1979), 15 (1980), 5 (1981), 4 (1982), 1 (1984), 1 (1987)
Numbering: 1000–2000
Series D: No. D1000–1410 Total sales: 404 watches. 1 (1978), 15 (1979), 129 (1980), 87 (1981), 70 (1982), 53 (1983), 20 (1984), 10 (1985), 6 (1986), 5 (1987), 7 (1988), 1 (1989)
Numbering: 1000–1500
Without small case number: Total sales: 129 watches. 1 (1974), 120 (1975), 5 (1977), 1 (1979), 1 (1989), 1 (1994)
Without any letters: Total sales: 21 watches. 5 (1988), 10 (1989), 6 (1990)
Between 1972 and 1976, the Royal Oak 5402 was the only Royal Oak produced by Audemars Piguet, available in a single material and with a single dial. In four years, this radical model made its mark on the world before being rolled out from 1976 onwards in one of the most prolific collections in watchmaking history.
The 5402ST remained in the catalogue for 15 years.
Total number of watches sold: 4,288.
Series A: n° A1–A1999. Total sales 1,937 watches. 490 (1972), 543 (1973), 614 (1974), 243 (1975), 7 (1976), 13 (1977), 4 (1978), 6 (1979), 10 (1980), 2 (1981), 2 (1982), 1 (1983), 1 (1984), 1 (1989)
Numbering: 1–2000
Series B: n° B1001–B2000. Total sales: 845 watches. 228 (1975), 569 (1976), 23 (1977), 3 (1978), 7 (1979), 7 (1980), 4 (1981), 1 (1986), 1 (1987), 1 (1992), 1 (1993)
Numbering: 1000–2000
Series C: n° C1001–1973. Total sales: 952 watches. 10 (1976), 459 (1977), 234 (1978), 223 (1979), 15 (1980), 5 (1981), 4 (1982), 1 (1984), 1 (1987)
Numbering: 1000–2000
Series D: No. D1000–1410 Total sales: 404 watches. 1 (1978), 15 (1979), 129 (1980), 87 (1981), 70 (1982), 53 (1983), 20 (1984), 10 (1985), 6 (1986), 5 (1987), 7 (1988), 1 (1989)
Numbering: 1000–1500
Without small case number: Total sales: 129 watches. 1 (1974), 120 (1975), 5 (1977), 1 (1979), 1 (1989), 1 (1994)
Without any letters: Total sales: 21 watches. 5 (1988), 10 (1989), 6 (1990)
1978. Royal Oak 5402BA No. 192 Date. Calibre 2121, movement 174038. Bracelet 344, T21 Tapisserie dial. Case 39 mm B19030, no. 192 in 18-carat yellow gold. Sold in Mexico in May 1978. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1073.
1978. Royal Oak 5402BA No. 330, caseback view Date. Calibre 2121, movement 196615. Bracelet 344. T21 Tapisserie dial. 39 mm case B28716, no. 39 in 18-carat yellow gold. Sold in Mexico in November 1978. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1134.
1978. Royal Oak 5402BA, No. 330 Date. Calibre 2121, movement 196615. Bracelet 344. T21 Tapisserie dial. 39 mm case B28716, no. 39 in 18-carat yellow gold. Sold in Mexico in November 1978. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1134.
1978. Royal Oak 54042BA No. 231 Calibre 2121, movement 174138. Dial probably changed in the 1980s. 39 mm case B22139. 18-carat yellow gold. Sold in the USA in 1978. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1610.
1978. Royal Oak 5402BA No. 113 Date. Calibre 2121, movement 174319. Gemset T21 Tapisserie dial. Bracelet 344. 39 mm case B18951 no. 113 in 18-carat yellow gold. Sold to UHG (German market) in June 1978. © Pygmalion collection.
1979. Royal Oak 4187BA No. 399 Date. Calibre 2121, movement 197643. Gemset T21 Tapisserie dial. Bracelet 344. 39 mm case B34725 no. 399 (consecutive number 5402BA) in 18-carat yellow gold. Sold to Darcal (Swiss market) in July 1977. Transformation of Model 5402BA into Model 4187BC not documented, but probably done in the Audemars Piguet workshops. © Pygmalion collection.
1977. Technical Data Sheet for the case of Royal Oak Model 5402BA Audemars Piguet Archives.
1979. Royal Oak 5402BA Model (39 mm) The photo realised for the catalogue shows a white date disc, even though the gilded disc was more often used. Audemars Piguet 1979–1980 catalogue. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1981–1985. Royal Oak 5402BA Model (39 mm) with gemset dial Audemars Piguet 1981–1982, 1984 and 1985 catalogues. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1986–1988. Royal Oak 5402BA Model (39 mm) Audemars Piguet 1986–1987 and 1987–1988 catalogues. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1977. Royal Oak 5402BA's folding clasp The yellow gold folding clasp of the first examples quickly gave way to a new more rigid white gold variant.
1978. Folding clasp of the Royal Oak 5402BA No. 192 The yellow gold folding clasp of the first examples quickly gave way to a white gold variant. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1073.
1978. Royal Oak 5402BA, bracelet No. 192 Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1073.
Introduced in 1977, the yellow gold version was produced in 736 units, sold between 1977 and 1990. It is available in several dial variants, sometimes gemset. Nine examples were transformed into Model 4187 with gemset bezel rim.
Number of units sold: 736 (including 9 examples transformed into 4187BA between 1980 and 1985)
Numbering 1 to 745
Sales dates: 1977–1990, i.e. 95 (1977), 231 (1978), 122 (1979), 135 (1980), 51 (1981), 22 (1982), 19 (1983), 23 (1984), 9 (1985), 13 (1986), 3 (1987), 8 (1988), 3 (1989), 2 (1990)
Introduced in 1977, the yellow gold version was produced in 736 units, sold between 1977 and 1990. It is available in several dial variants, sometimes gemset. Nine examples were transformed into Model 4187 with gemset bezel rim.
Number of units sold: 736 (including 9 examples transformed into 4187BA between 1980 and 1985)
Numbering 1 to 745
Sales dates: 1977–1990, i.e. 95 (1977), 231 (1978), 122 (1979), 135 (1980), 51 (1981), 22 (1982), 19 (1983), 23 (1984), 9 (1985), 13 (1986), 3 (1987), 8 (1988), 3 (1989), 2 (1990)
1978. Royal Oak 5402SA No. 286 Calibre 2121, movement 175031. 39 mm case B20804. Steel and 18-carat yellow gold. Sold in Hong Kong in 1978. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1446.
1978. Royal Oak 5402SA No. 286, caseback view Calibre 2121, movement 175031. Case 39 mm B20804. Steel and 18-carat yellow gold. Sold in Hong Kong in 1978. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1446.
1978. Hands and hour-markers 5402SA The yellow gold hour-markers and hands echo the colour of the bezel, in the same material. They embed a small amount of tritium to enhance night-time readability. Close-up on the Royal Oak 5402SA no. 286. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1446.
1977. Technical Data Sheet for the case of Royal Oak Model 5402SA. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1978–1980. Royal Oak 5402SA Model (39 mm) Audemars Piguet 1978–1979 and 1979–1980. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1981–1984. Royal Oak 5402SA Model (39 mm) Audemars Piguet 1981–1982, 1979–1980, 1984 and 1985 catalogues. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1978. Bracelet of the Royal Oak 5402SA No. 286 Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1446.
1978. Folding clasp of the Royal Oak 5402SA No. 286 Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1446.
Introduced in 1977, the two-tone version plays on the contrasts and reflections between yellow gold and steel. The version is equipped with a slate grey dial with yellow gold hour-markers and hands. It remained unchanged in the catalogue from 1978 to 1985.
Number of units sold: 876
Numbering 1 to 951
Sales dates: 1977–2002, i.e. 92 (1977), 299 (1978), 180 (1979), 92 (1980), 126 (1981), 39 (1982), 9 (1983), 6 (1984), 6 (1985), 6 (1986), 10 (1987), 2 (1988), 4 (1989), 3 (1990), 1 (1993), 1 (2002)
Introduced in 1977, the two-tone version plays on the contrasts and reflections between yellow gold and steel. The version is equipped with a slate grey dial with yellow gold hour-markers and hands. It remained unchanged in the catalogue from 1978 to 1985.
Number of units sold: 876
Numbering 1 to 951
Sales dates: 1977–2002, i.e. 92 (1977), 299 (1978), 180 (1979), 92 (1980), 126 (1981), 39 (1982), 9 (1983), 6 (1984), 6 (1985), 6 (1986), 10 (1987), 2 (1988), 4 (1989), 3 (1990), 1 (1993), 1 (2002)
1980. Royal Oak 5402BC no. 110 Calibre 2121, movement 211839. Case B43447, 39 mm. 18-carat white gold. Sold in Germany in 1980. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1835.
1980. Royal Oak 5402BC No. 110, caseback view Calibre 2121. Movement 211839. Case 39 mm B43447. 18-carat white gold. Sold in Germany in 1980. Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 1835.
1980. Royal Oak 5402BC No. 140 Date. Calibre 2121, movement 211845. Gemset T21 Tapisserie dial. Bracelet 344. 39 mm case no. 43477, no. 140 in 18-carat white gold. Sold to Darcal (Swiss market) in October 1980. © Pygmalion collection.
1978–1980. Royal Oak 5402BC Model (39 mm), gemset dial Audemars Piguet 1978–1979 and 1979–1980. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1981–1985. Royal Oak 5402BC Model (39 mm), gemset dial Audemars Piguet 1981–1982, 1984 and 1985 catalogues. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1980. Technical sheet for dial 5402, No. 78 The 11 holes are destined to welcome diamonds. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1980. Technical sheet for dial 5402, No. 87 The 11 holes are destined to welcome diamonds. Audemars Piguet Archives.
Circa 1980. Technical sheet for dial 5402, No. 111 The 11 holes have been made for diamonds. Audemars Piguet Archives.
1979. Royal Oak 5402BC, N° 88, B23005 Calibre 2121, movement 173138 (original movement: 175096). 18-carat white gold case and bracelet. Sold in Germany in 1979. Auctioned off by Phillips in Geneva during the auction of 14 May 2017, lot 148.
Apart from a first example made in 1972 for the Shah of Iran, the Royal Oak in white gold was officially presented in 1977. Its dial is usually punctuated with 11 diamond hour-markers. Two versions adorned with diamonds exist, on a round or square white gold base.
As with the 5402BC, when the dial is gemset, the baton hands are tritium-free.
Number of units sold: 150 (of which 10 were transformed into 4187BC between 1979 and 1991).
Numbering 1 to 151
Sales dates: 1972-1991, i.e. 1972 (1), 1977 (1), 1978 (50), 1979 (45), 1980 (37), 1981 (5), 1982 (3), 1983 (2), 1985 (2), 1988 (2), 1989 (1), 1991 (1)
Apart from a first example made in 1972 for the Shah of Iran, the Royal Oak in white gold was officially presented in 1977. Its dial is usually punctuated with 11 diamond hour-markers. Two versions adorned with diamonds exist, on a round or square white gold base.
As with the 5402BC, when the dial is gemset, the baton hands are tritium-free.
Number of units sold: 150 (of which 10 were transformed into 4187BC between 1979 and 1991).
Numbering 1 to 151
Sales dates: 1972-1991, i.e. 1972 (1), 1977 (1), 1978 (50), 1979 (45), 1980 (37), 1981 (5), 1982 (3), 1983 (2), 1985 (2), 1988 (2), 1989 (1), 1991 (1)
