\r\n\u003C/p>",[177,182,187,192],{"fileReference":178,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":179,"altText":180,"assetPagePath":181,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--fe2df566-de30-4036-98c8-55e29a773c18/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","乔治•格雷(Georges Golay,1921–1987年),1980年前后。自1945年加入爱彼,他就参与推动品牌现代化进程,后于1967年出任爱彼首位非家族成员总裁,直至1987年去世。©爱彼档案图片","Portrait photo of Georges Golay in 1980","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/story-100_4_1_2000px0",{"fileReference":183,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":184,"altText":185,"assetPagePath":186,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--255e9b1d-700f-46fc-b6c0-79708d55fb68/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","乔治•格雷(Georges Golay),1966年。他不仅在爱彼的发展历程中发挥了举足轻重的作用,还曾主持布拉苏丝(Le Brassus)北欧国际滑雪比赛,助推汝山谷(Vallée de Joux)声名远扬。图片来源:书籍©Épreuves internationales de ski Le Brassus, Vallée de Joux,Jacques Piguet出版,2017年,第101页。","Portrait photo of Georges Golay in 1966","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1966_georges_golayoriginalv20",{"fileReference":188,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":189,"altText":190,"assetPagePath":191,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--dd6513e4-3a57-4bb4-a087-631fc12fd205/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼总裁乔治•格雷(Georges Golay,左)与爱彼销售负责人Armin Steiner(任期1955–1974年,右),在日内瓦附近举办的瑞士钟表工业协会(SSIH)会议上交谈,1972年。©《名表世界》(Europa Star),1972年双月刊第5期(总第77期),第23页。","Georges Golay and Armin Steiner in 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/golay-et-steiner",{"fileReference":193,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":194,"altText":195,"assetPagePath":196,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--18677bad-d8b5-4b51-b801-3f9285534b26/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)与伊丽莎白•寇波(Elisabeth Kopp),1987年。乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)欢迎伊丽莎白•寇波(Elisabeth Kopp)视察爱彼,她是瑞士首位女性联邦委员。©爱彼档案图片","Georges Golay and Elisabeth Kopp in 1987","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1987_visite_e_koppggolayoriginal0",[99,100],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":199,"gridClassNames":8,":items":200,":itemsOrder":222,":type":101},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":201,"textcarousel":204},{"id":202,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":203,":type":76},"title-832a65e360","杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta):崛起的钟表设计大师",{"text":205,"images":206,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>意大利设计师杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)是珠宝设计出身,造诣深厚,拥有鲜明的个人风格。自1950年代起,他为众多钟表品牌带来了数百款设计佳作,如为宇宙(Universal)设计了Polerouter腕表(1954),帮助欧米茄(Omega)重新设计了星座系列(Constellation,1959)。1970年4月,38岁的他在制表业已小有名气。之后短短数年里,他操刀设计了百达翡丽鹦鹉螺(Patek Phillipe Nautilus,1976),重新设计了万国工程师系列(IWC Ingenieur,1976),开创宝格丽(Bulgari)的经典之作Bulgari Bulgari系列(1977),并凭借这些非凡设计声名远扬,被誉为“钟表业毕加索”。在深入了解杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)以及他的先锋地位之前,让我们一起回顾钟表设计行业兴起的历史背景。\u003C/p>",[207,212,217],{"fileReference":208,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":209,"altText":210,"assetPagePath":211,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--6bbd19e3-c29d-4b26-846b-e24cf456b0fb/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta,1931–2011年),2000年代。他是一位天赋异禀的设计大师,曾创立同名钟表品牌。他的诸多设计现已成为传奇之作,如爱彼Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表(1972年)、百达翡丽鹦鹉螺腕表(Patek Philippe Nautilus,1976年)以及宝格丽(Bulgari)Bulgari Bulgari系列腕表(1977年)。©杰罗•尊达遗产基金会 (Gérald Genta Heritage Association)。","Portrait photo of Gérald Genta in 2000s","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/vers_2000_geraldgentaportraitoriginal",{"fileReference":213,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":214,"altText":215,"assetPagePath":216,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1de4c2c0-5367-49f6-9047-40d910e5ef75/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta,1931–2011年),1990年前后。1950年代以来,他设计了数千款时计作品,惯用水粉笔或铅笔在纸板上完成初稿。©杰罗•尊达遗产基金会(Gérald Genta Heritage Association)。","Gérald Genta designing a new model for his brand Genta","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/vers_1990_geraldgentaoriginalv21",{"fileReference":218,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":219,"altText":220,"assetPagePath":221,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--85f994c4-3cd8-4f9a-b64d-85ebf309a430/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta,1931–2011年),1985年前后。石英危机后,这位设计大师参与推动了复杂功能时计的复兴。图为他正在聆听自创品牌Gérald Genta三问报时怀表的报时声。©杰罗•尊达遗产基金会(Gérald Genta Heritage Association)。","Portrait photo of Gérald Genta, cera 1985","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/genta-vers-19850",[99,100],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":224,"gridClassNames":8,":items":225,":itemsOrder":254,":type":101},{"text":7,"title":7,"carousel":7},{"title":226,"text":229,"carousel":231},{"id":227,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":228,":type":76},"title-2d87028395","钟表设计师的诞生",{"text":230,":type":110},"\u003Cp>1960年代,瑞士钟表业并没有所谓的“钟表设计师”职业,只有既设计钟表,也设计诸如家居作品、汽车等其他产品的“造型师”或“模型师”。当时,最早一批投身于制表业的设计师多处于起步阶段,籍籍无名,包括杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)、伯爵(Piaget)的让-克劳德•奎特(Jean-Claude Gueit)和百达翡丽(Patek Philippe)的让-丹尼尔•卢比(Jean-Daniel Rubi),他们为约格•海塞克(Jörg Hysek)、伊曼纽尔•奎特(Emmanuel Gueit)、克劳德•埃梅内格(Claude Emmenegger)等著名的钟表设计师铺平了道路。随着时尚、设计、当代艺术成为国际风潮,社会对钟表设计职业的认识也开始发生改变。例如,《瑞士钟表杂志》(Journal Suisse d'Horlogerie)开辟了专栏探讨“创意艺术”,与当时如火如荼的各类设计大赛遥相呼应,独立制表师协会(Académie des Créateurs Indépendants)也于1980年代应运而生。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>早在二十世纪二三十年代,爱彼就已展现出非凡创造力,但1970年代以前,爱彼鲜有关于钟表设计过程的记录。当时,爱彼仅是一家只有数十人的小公司,专注于打造孤品时计或按款型进行少量制作。整个制作过程往往以非正式合作的方式进行,依赖于制表师与表壳供应商的合作。来自日内瓦(Wenger、Eggly)、拉绍德封(Favre-Perret等)、意大利(\u003Ca name=\"OLE_LINK6\" id=\"OLE_LINK6\">\u003C/a>Brera、Ponti、Villa等)或巴黎(Jaeger)的表壳供应商,会为各品牌设计表壳或表盘,经常出现不同品牌款式雷同的情况。在部分款型设计中,爱彼也会与蒂芙尼(Tiffany)、梵克雅宝(Van Cleef & Arpels)、宝格丽(Bulgari)、古宝琳(Gübelin)、卡地亚(Cartier)、奥斯卡海曼(Oscar Heyman)等国际品牌商、零售商、珠宝商建立合作,它们通常会在时计上嵌入自己的标志。爱彼有时也与独立设计师联手,包括在1950年代设计出Discovolante Ref. 5093表款的\u003Ca name=\"OLE_LINK9\" id=\"OLE_LINK9\">\u003C/a>\u003Ca name=\"OLE_LINK10\" id=\"OLE_LINK10\">\u003C/a>德国设计师格布哈德•杜夫(Gebhard Duve)。\u003Cbr />\r\n\u003C/p>",{"images":232,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":129},[233,238,243,249],{"fileReference":234,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":235,"altText":236,"assetPagePath":237,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ecb08d38-e8de-4189-acd0-fde017c95a5a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","设计手稿,1952年。德国设计师格布哈德•杜夫(Gebhard Duve,1899–1977年)向爱彼创始人之孙、时任创意设计部负责人的Jacques Louis Audemars展示其设计手稿,其中一幅后来促成被昵称为“Discovolante”的Ref. 5093腕表的诞生。©爱彼档案图片","Designer Gebhard Duve's sketches of the Model 5093, nicknamed \"discovolante\", 1952","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1952_croquis_duveoriginal-1",{"fileReference":239,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":240,"altText":241,"assetPagePath":242,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--c3a7e58c-39e1-4187-96ff-255b0617b7ce/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","“Discovolante”腕表,1959年。双色表盘,机刻Clous de Paris巴黎钉纹表圈,Calibre 2003机芯,机芯编号71245。表壳编号14717,直径35毫米,18K黄金。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1801。","The wristwatch Model 5093, nicknamed \"discovolante\", 1959","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_1801_1_png-1",{"fileReference":244,"mobileFileReference":245,"caption":246,"altText":247,"assetPagePath":248,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--78538fcc-b010-4627-8ed7-f09343726023/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--3a2019bc-ce28-46d6-bfcb-c8fd0d75be14/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","胸针表设计手稿,1913年,由爱彼与Tiffany(蒂芙尼)联合设计。©爱彼档案图片","Sketch of a brooch watch, 1913","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/4_1913_rept_tiffanypng0",{"fileReference":250,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":251,"altText":252,"assetPagePath":253,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--50c1cc5a-e334-42bb-8140-c623706f78ae/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼与威戈(Wenger)往来信函,1941年。图中所示信件表明,表壳制造商在部分表款的问世过程中扮演着至关重要的角色。©爱彼档案图片","Correspondence letter between Audemars Piguet and Wenger, 1941","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1941_10195_13vzahoriginal0",[99,131,132],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":256,"gridClassNames":8,":items":257,":itemsOrder":289,":type":101},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":258,"textcarousel":261},{"id":259,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":260,":type":76},"title-bf31525d56","爱彼与杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)的合作",{"text":262,"images":263,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>如前文所述,1950年代,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)便已开始向爱彼提供自己的钟表设计作品。1960年,这位设计师的名字及其设计的多个表款都收录于爱彼的历史档案中,其中包括多款融入几何元素的精致腕表,例如Ref. 5179、尽显不对称美感的Ref. 5182,以及质感丰富、造型独特的Ref. 5199。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1960年代,基于相同的理念和审美,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)与爱彼的合作愈加紧密。他在2011年的一次采访中表示:“每个人品位不同,引起共鸣的‘触点’也不同。爱彼使我获益良多,促使我形成一套兼顾人体工程学的美学和设计法则。腕表必须贴合手腕,还要能够恰到好处地若隐若现在衬衫袖口下。”他还补充道:“乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)和我就像一辆双人自行车,如果不能达成一致意见,我们宁愿不做这个款型……我俩的合作可以说是亲密无间。”事实的确如此,两人甚至佩戴着同款Ref. 5233腕表。这款腕表采用流线型设计,灵感源自一块几乎完全融化的香皂。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1967年至1971年,是杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)与爱彼合作的巅峰时期。在1967年日内瓦高级钟表大赏(Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève)中,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)凭借为爱彼设计的一款手袋表荣获大奖。1969年至1971年,爱彼连续三年委托杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)代表公司参加巴塞尔钟表展。据这位设计师回忆,他不仅在紧凑的爱彼展位上接待客户、介绍新品,还亲自布置钟表展柜,并负责展后的拆卸工作。因此,1970年4月10日,当乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)致电杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)时,两人很可能就住在巴塞尔相距不远的酒店里。\u003C/p>",[264,269,274,279,284],{"fileReference":265,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":266,"altText":267,"assetPagePath":268,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ed37ef36-28f6-4e6c-b357-313da1d98430/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5233BC超薄腕表,1974年。根据口述资料,1970年代初,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)与乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)佩戴的正是此款腕表。Calibre 2003机芯,机芯编号155162,表壳编号92642,18K白金。1974年售予瑞士Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1930。","Close up of the ultra-thin reference 5233BC wristwatch, 1974","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_1",{"fileReference":270,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":271,"altText":272,"assetPagePath":273,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--2240a5a0-3dbf-4324-ac69-f84f517561ae/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 8311手袋表,1967年。在当年的日内瓦高级钟表大赏(Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève)中,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)与爱彼凭借根据该图稿设计而成的手袋表荣获大奖。©爱彼档案图片","Close up of the Bag watch, Model 8311, 1967","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_2_v20",{"fileReference":275,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":276,"altText":277,"assetPagePath":278,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--b945570e-5573-4a48-8707-d20a3bb9fe63/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 8311手袋表设计图稿,1966年前后。在1967年的日内瓦高级钟表大赏(Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève)中,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)与爱彼凭借根据该图稿设计而成的手袋表荣获大奖。©爱彼档案图片","Sketch of Model 8311, 1966","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_3_v20",{"fileReference":280,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":281,"altText":282,"assetPagePath":283,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f56ba5ff-4c8e-49f7-91b2-116816eb5c38/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5182腕表,1962年。1960年代初,爱彼推出一系列不对称设计腕表,据档案记载,这些作品或出自杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)之手。©爱彼档案图片","Close up of a asymmetrical wristwatch, Model 5182, 1962","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_4",{"fileReference":285,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":286,"altText":287,"assetPagePath":288,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--7b43614d-a78a-4040-b90f-c76473657071/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5179腕表,融入圆形、方形和矩形元素,或由杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)设计而成。©爱彼档案图片","Close up of a wristwatch combining a round, a square and a rectangle, Model 5179, 1961","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_51",[99,100],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":291,"gridClassNames":8,":items":292,":itemsOrder":306,":type":101},{"video":7,"title":7,"textimage":7},{"title":293,"textimage":296,"video":303},{"id":294,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":295,":type":76},"title-cbc56a5b4f","“一款前所未有的精钢运动腕表”",{"text":297,"image":298,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":146},"\u003Cp>杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)一生都不会忘记那天下午4点乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)打来的电话。他回忆道,这位来自瑞士汝山谷的爱彼总裁带着优美的口音、铿锵的语调,不容置疑地对他说:“尊达先生,有经销商想要我们设计出一款前所未有的精钢运动腕表,我希望明早拿到设计草图。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)立即在画板上着手构思。他解释道:“我以为他的意思是腕表要有‘前所未有的防水性能’......我记得儿时曾在日内瓦的机械桥(Pont de la Machine)看到一个潜水员戴着潜水头盔。头盔上的八个螺栓加上橡胶密封圈能够保护潜水员在水下的生命安全,这让我深为震撼。于是,我模仿潜水头盔设计出表壳,用此承载一枚顶级机械机芯。此外,我设计的表链采用了此前从未有过的一体式构造,链节宽度逐渐收窄,制作难度极高;表盘的指针和时标均覆有荧光涂层;钴蓝色放射纹表盘上以机刻雕花工艺装饰以‘Clous de Paris’巴黎钉纹,搭配烟熏效果,更添独特个性。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>“所有细节在第一版草图中就已经构想好了!选择八角形表圈,显然是为了分别嵌入八颗螺丝。必须指出的是,全新的密封圈采用了唇形设计,牢牢地固定于表圈和单体式表壳之间。单体式表壳的构造此前在低端的腕表产品中出现过。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>“螺丝采用六边形设计,这样可将螺帽嵌入表圈中卡牢,确保从底盖拧紧螺丝时螺帽不会转动。我必须在一夜之间完成所有设计!这太疯狂了,我自己也不知道究竟用了什么魔法才能完成,真是太神奇了!”\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":299,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":300,"altText":301,"assetPagePath":302,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--95d1bad3-883c-41f3-aa1f-880fcedc01fc/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表设计手稿,1970年4月。受爱彼所托,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)于1970年4月10日晚,利用水粉笔和铅笔在纸板上完成了设计初稿,已基本涵盖此枚腕表的主要特征。©杰罗•尊达遗产基金会(Gérald Genta Heritage Association)。","First Royal Oak 5402 sketch by Gérald Genta","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/2021_evelyne_gentageraldgentaroyaloakdessintiff0",{"copyright":31,"caption":31,"videoLink":304,":type":305},"https://bcove.video/3F2wu7K","apchronicles/components/video",[99,167,307],"video",{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":309,"gridClassNames":8,":items":310,":itemsOrder":341,":type":101},{"carousel_copy":7,"title":7,"textimage":7},{"title":311,"textimage":314,"carousel_copy":321},{"id":312,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":313,":type":76},"title-1b84196d44","灵感源泉:众说纷纭的传奇故事",{"text":315,"image":316,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":146},"\u003Cp>回溯Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的创作历程之前,我们先看看它的灵感来源,以及由此引发的种种猜测和传奇故事。Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的美学设计融合多种影响元素,既传承了爱彼1930至1960年代时计作品的非凡设计风格,也借鉴了1960至1970年代当代建筑的发展潮流,同时汲取了席卷当代艺术、建筑和音乐世界的文化新风潮精华。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>对于Royal Oak皇家橡树这个名字有何象征意义,目前猜测众多,依据通常是腕表设计与其他物品的相似之处。流传最广的说法是,表圈及八颗螺丝的设计,灵感源自英国“皇家橡树”号战舰上的炮门。然而,这些炮门形非八角,也不是用八颗螺丝进行固定。更不必说,Royal Oak皇家橡树之名是设计完成一年半之后才选定,后文将对此展开详述。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>上文曾提及,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)称灵感来自儿时见过的一个潜水头盔。不可否认,腕表的防水性能确与此有关,但八角形状肯定另有其源,毕竟潜水头盔应该没有八角形的吧?曾任爱彼博物馆馆长的马丁•威尔利(Martin K. Wehrli)及同时期的几个人,提到爱彼设在日内瓦Vallinin街2号的小办公室里,曾有个不起眼的设备——八边形包裹称量机。这是否间接影响了Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的设计?或许如此。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼董事会副主席、创始家族第四代核心人物Olivier Audemars解释称,裸露在外的螺丝是力量的象征。他回忆道,这样的设计在1972年堪称颠覆之举,是向世人宣示机械时计依然技艺精湛、坚实耐用。如何打开表壳确是值得藏入保险柜的奥秘,因为根本就转不动嵌入式的六角形螺丝!(银行)保险柜的比喻可谓恰如其分——精钢表壳内安放的机芯,部分组件由实金材质打造!在石英技术对制表业虎视眈眈之际,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表为传统机械技艺提供了坚实保护,堪称行业英雄。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>赋予精钢材质尊贵地位也是一种解释。能工巧匠的精湛技艺使打造时计的这一普通金属身价倍增,这与400年前的一段历史遥相呼应。当时,英国国王查理二世(Charles II)曾藏在橡树上躲过了克伦威尔将军(Cromwell)的追兵,随后这位国王将其封为“皇家橡树”。腕表以此橡树命名,更印证了这一呼应。将腕表精钢材质与英国“皇家橡树”号战舰钢制船身联系起来,也是源出于此。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":317,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":318,"altText":319,"assetPagePath":320,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--6f41a015-0eca-4f1b-9639-a2a31897a5e7/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","潜水员,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的灵感来源,1933年。杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)的设计灵感源自一段童年记忆,当时他看到一名潜水员正要潜入罗纳河,依靠厚重装备的防水性能确保生命安全。©图片来源:KEYSTONE-France/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images。","Archive image of men around scaphandrier, 1933","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/gettyimages-965915668tiff",{"images":322,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":129},[323,328,333,338],{"fileReference":324,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":325,"altText":326,"assetPagePath":327,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--5683c89a-765e-4f02-b9d7-a92e50162e77/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","天光云影下的皇家橡树与什罗普郡博斯科贝尔庄园,2008年。这处17世纪的狩猎庄园,因英国国王查理二世(Charles II)在1651年伍斯特战役战败后,藏身于附近的一颗橡树而闻名。摄影师Boris Baggs。©图片来源:English Heritage/Heritage Images/ Getty Images。","Royal Oak and the Boscobel House, at Shropshire with a dramatic sky","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/gettyimages-1036155228tiffv20",{"fileReference":329,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":330,"altText":331,"assetPagePath":332,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--b75b2d3c-4d55-4ed6-b184-b8471167c09a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","皇家橡树,1973年。Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表问世一年后,爱彼以宣传册形式,阐述了Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表与17世纪被英国国王查理二世(Charles II)封为皇家橡树的救命橡树、英国“皇家橡树”号海军战舰之间的联系。Royal Oak皇家橡树宣传册,1978年,第8页。©爱彼档案图片","A Royal Oak Brochure, 1973","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_leaflet_royaloakbateau6tiff-1",{"fileReference":334,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":335,"altText":336,"assetPagePath":337,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--89a9b63f-faee-42d7-bbde-8396801d6a3a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","英国“皇家橡树”号皇家海军战舰,1892年。1973年,在征得英国国家海事博物馆(National Maritime Museum)的同意后,爱彼将该图作为宣传册的封面,突显Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表与同名英国皇家海军战舰之间的联系。©爱彼档案图片","Illustration of a eponymous English Royal Navy vessel, 1892","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_leaflet_royaloakbateau1tiff-20",{"fileReference":339,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":340,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":31,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--15e29d0f-1db1-4097-bd1c-9650c04935cf/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","20世纪60及70年代爱彼日内瓦工厂里的包裹秤。杰罗·尊达(Gérald Genta)曾是这里的常客,这个包裹秤或许为他提供了设计Royal Oak皇家橡树系列的造型灵感。爱彼博物馆典。",[99,167,342],"carousel_copy",{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":344,"gridClassNames":8,":items":345,":itemsOrder":369,":type":101},{"threeimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":346,"text":349,"threeimages":351},{"id":347,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":348,":type":76},"title-308a04e244","从观察到自我主张",{"text":350,":type":110},"\u003Cp>然而,只要仔细观察,就会发现Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的八角形表圈设计是对精致美感的纯粹追求。杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)曾说,嵌入八颗六角形螺丝会导致表圈过大。要缩小表圈,就得减小螺丝间的宽度,于是便形成了八角形。但为何是八角?或许是因为只有这样,左右两侧才能正好嵌入酒桶形表壳,上下两端才能相互对称环绕表盘,螺丝与表带的固定链节才能自然对齐。此外,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)将表圈边缘三分之一处采用倒角处理,也是出于美观考虑。由于杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在珠宝设计方面颇有造诣,因而有人认为,表壳与表带上独具辨识度的镜面抛光和缎面打磨交替的手工润饰刻面营造出的光影效果,灵感来源于钻石雕刻工艺。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>不同的人凭借自己的感觉和判断,赋予Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表不一样的艺术内涵。在被问及设计灵感时,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)表示:“创意设计首先是在潜意识下对身边事物的细微观察,大脑会将这些信息储存下来,然后经过不断抗争,挣脱周围环境的影响,才能创造出原本不存在的东西。所以,创作既是观察,也是一种自我主张。”\u003C/p>",{"images":352,":type":368},[353,358,363],{"fileReference":354,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":355,"altText":356,"assetPagePath":357,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1811e9fe-8f87-4625-928a-5ce01c9f0f7a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表技术图纸,1971年。为保护Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表技术原理,爱彼于1971年12月6日申请专利,编号17724/71。©爱彼档案图片","Royal Oak technical drawing, 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/brevet-dessin-royal-oakv2",{"fileReference":359,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":360,"altText":361,"assetPagePath":362,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--4369bc5e-3f73-4263-b412-f06b91639b91/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)与Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的合成照片,2002年,专为纪念Royal Oak皇家橡树系列诞生30周年,附有杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)亲笔签名和题字:“Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表,你是我引以为豪的杰作,借由布拉苏丝(Le Brassus)制表师的巧手,成就了我儿时的梦想。”©爱彼档案图片","Gérald Genta and the Royal Oak Photomontage, circa 2002","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/gerald_genta_original",{"fileReference":364,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":365,"altText":366,"assetPagePath":367,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f9876d8c-d6b0-4d9b-ae0a-fb4426b46290/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)为纪念Royal Oak皇家橡树系列诞生30周年举办的展览活动题字签名,2002年。©爱彼档案图片","Text written and signed by Gérald Genta, 2002","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/10_3_2002_dedicacedegeraldgenta","apchronicles/components/threeimages",[99,131,370],"threeimages",{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":372,"gridClassNames":8,":items":373,":itemsOrder":397,":type":101},{"twoimages":7,"title":7,"textimage":7},{"title":374,"textimage":377,"twoimages":384},{"id":375,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":376,":type":76},"title-6150b5927c","从设计构思到原型表款问世",{"text":378,"image":379,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":146},"\u003Cp>1970年4月11日,巴塞尔钟表展开幕,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在爱彼展位布置腕表陈设。与此同时,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)则向Carlo de Marchi等代理商展示了尊达的设计图纸,赢得各方好评。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>时任爱彼总裁的乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)将喜讯告诉了杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)。这位设计师当即提出一个不太寻常的要求:“此事非同小可,我需要亲自监督腕表原型的制作流程。请告诉我需要去拜访哪家公司?”这个要求的不同寻常之处在于,当时爱彼的生产和新品研发均由创始人之孙、时任董事会主席Jacques-Louis Audemars亲自掌管,监督原型表款制作原本是他的职责。杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)后来解释说:“我当时的想法非常明确,我很清楚自己想做什么。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>他首先前往制表小镇拉绍德封(La Chaux-de-Fonds),与表壳制造商Favre-Perret洽谈。这家公司创立于1865年,专注生产黄金表壳和珠宝饰品,1999年被瑞士最大钟表集团斯沃琪集团(Swatch Group)收购。Favre-Perret此前从未用精钢制作过表壳,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)却选择它为合作伙伴,令杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)颇为不解。但这一选择无疑是明智的,因为这家传统制表企业始终坚持精雕细琢的工匠精神和精妙无双的润饰工艺。说服Favre-Perret的工匠走出舒适区,将制作黄金表壳的高超技艺和精湛手法运用于精钢材质,并研制出前所未有的单体式防水表壳构造,是接下来要攻克的两大难关。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>然而,对方却明确回绝了杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)。谈到这里,这位设计师热情更盛,坚持说:“这是一场革命!一场不可思议的变革!”他进而详细解释自己的设计:“显然,橡胶密封圈上方必须带有圆边,有两道凸纹……表圈较宽,必须留有足够的空间容纳螺帽,确保钉体不会碰到防水垫圈。”最终,Favre-Perret被成功说服。鉴于单体式表壳的新颖创意和特殊构造,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)很快决定以白金打造原型表款。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1970年6月16日,Favre-Perret收到一封信,信中要求订购四枚原型表款。耐人寻味的是,虽然杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)从未正式入职爱彼,常宣称自己是独立设计师,但这封信的抬头为爱彼,署的却是这位设计师的大名,这种情况十分少见。此外,信中要求提供1,000只精钢表壳和100只黄金表壳的报价。如此规模的订单量在爱彼历史上闻所未闻(尊达解释说,1,000枚是确保精钢腕表盈利的最低数量),同时也表明爱彼保留了黄金表款这一选项。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":380,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":381,"altText":382,"assetPagePath":383,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--eab426dc-2ce9-4b13-b114-12c9afd1320e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树首批原型表款订单,1970年。当年6月,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)向表壳制造商Favre-Perret订购了四枚Royal Oak皇家橡树白金原型表壳。©爱彼档案图片","Order for the first Royal Oak prototypes in 1970","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1970_commande_boiteproto5402tiff1",{"images":385,":type":396},[386,391],{"fileReference":387,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":388,"altText":389,"assetPagePath":390,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9e741c70-8226-4627-8540-1cbce2f316fe/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Jacques-Louis Audemars与杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta),1992年。在Royal Oak皇家橡树系列20周年庆聚餐中,二人回顾了这枚钟表史传奇之作的曲折诞生过程。爱彼新闻图片。©爱彼档案图片","Gérald Genta and Jacques-Louis Audemars in 1992","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/story_100_11_2_2000px",{"fileReference":392,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":393,"altText":394,"assetPagePath":395,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--588bf046-f6bc-4ec2-931d-289054c04fd9/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","维修单,1990年代。由爱彼客户服务部拟定,展示了Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402的主要表壳部件。©爱彼档案图片","Repair sheet of the main case components of the first Royal Oak, Model 5402, 1980","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1980_environ_ficherhabillage5402tiff","apchronicles/components/twoimages",[99,167,398],"twoimages",{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":400,"gridClassNames":8,":items":401,":itemsOrder":423,":type":101},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":402,"textcarousel":405},{"id":403,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":404,":type":76},"title-cbdf60c3a0","表盘创意",{"text":406,"images":407,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>Tapisserie格纹装饰表盘无疑是Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表美学理念最具代表性的特征之一。然而,若非天时地利人和,这一表盘设计恐怕无法出现在世人面前。在2020年出版的《20世纪的表盘——腕表的“脸庞”》(The Dial. The Face of the Wristwatch in the 20\u003Csup>th\u003C/sup> Century)一书中,著名收藏家、企业家、克罗特拍卖行创始人赫尔穆特•克罗特(Helmut Crott)讲述了这个表盘的缘起。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>一切要从1970年前后说起——当时,位于日内瓦的La Nationale有七台面临淘汰的古董机器,唯一会操作的工匠也已离职。这些雕花机器几十年来一直用于在各种物品上刻印几何、花卉或格纹装饰图案,例如金质打火机、钢笔、金银质地的香烟盒等。La Nationale决定将这些机器转手给公司附近的表盘制造商Stern Frères,条件是他们得接手现有的一笔订单。Stern Frères是20世纪最负盛名的表盘制造商,专为高级钟表品牌供应表盘,包括百达翡丽(Patek Phillippe,1932年被Stern家族收购)、江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)和爱彼(Audemars Piguet)。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>时任Stern Frères设计主管的罗兰•蒂尔(Roland Tille)明白,虽然这些古董机器难以操作,但却大有用处。在杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)为Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表拜访罗兰•蒂尔(Roland Tille)时,这位设计主管向他展示了这些机器,以及300个式样不同的雕花图案模板。两人挑选了13个用以打样的图案,其中一个名为“T21”,即“Tapisserie 21”。它就是Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表最终选定的表盘图案,也就是现在为人熟知的\u003Ci>“\u003C/i>Petite Tapisserie”小型格纹装饰图案。图案由数百个细小的立体方格组成,仿佛被截去顶端的金字塔,方格之间还有数以万计的微小菱格纹,呈现出微妙而独特的光影效果。\u003C/p>",[408,413,418],{"fileReference":409,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":410,"altText":411,"assetPagePath":412,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--58d88c47-b45f-4da5-b177-ad09ce98c010/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Stern Frères生产的首款Ref. 5402表盘技术参数,1971年前后。附有原型表盘,详细记录了表盘技术特征,列有“夜色蓝”(Bleu Nuit)和“云50”(N50或Nuage 50)的颜色命名。T21 Tapisserie指机刻雕花格纹装饰图案。©爱彼档案图片","Stern's technical sheet for the first 5402 dial, circa 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/cadran-5402st-sternv7",{"fileReference":414,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":415,"altText":416,"assetPagePath":417,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--518cb987-cb03-4412-a66d-0652e430e3f9/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Stern Créations S.A. 打造的不同Tapisserie图案,1981年前后。Tapisserie指表盘机刻雕花工艺,而非具体的重复图案,这种工艺能够雕刻出多种图案。©爱彼档案图片","Different Tapisserie tests, circa 1981","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/proto-tapisseriev50",{"fileReference":419,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":420,"altText":421,"assetPagePath":422,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--2433123f-1915-4800-ae34-f01a1788418c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","T18 Tapisserie花卉图案表盘,1975年前后,由Tapisserie机刻雕花工艺雕刻而成,用于Ref. 5417和Ref. 5423表款。©爱彼档案图片","The T18 Tapisserie dial, circa 1975","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/tapisserie-floralev70",[99,100],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":425,"gridClassNames":8,":items":426,":itemsOrder":451,":type":101},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":427,"textcarousel":430},{"id":428,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":429,":type":76},"title-eff308f71a","“夜色蓝,云50”色调",{"text":431,"images":432,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>与后来选定的机刻雕花格纹图案不同,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在设计初稿中就定下了表盘颜色。为装饰“Petite Tapisserie”小型格纹复杂图案的表面上色是一大技术难题。理想的色调既不能弱化图案上不计其数的微小细节,也不能过于淡化光影效果。喷漆会遮盖细微的菱格纹,最合适的方法自然是电镀,即给表盘涂以一层极薄的颜色。不过,Stern Frères的工匠非常清楚,蓝色是最难通过电镀工艺稳定达成的色调。即使电镀浴的时间精准到秒,混合液的用量精确到滴,温度也掌控得恰到好处,也无法保证每块表盘的颜色完全相同。第一批Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的表盘均为手工制作,颜色和上面的机刻雕花图案都可能略有不同。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>经电镀处理后,表盘上还需涂以常被工匠称为清漆的透明漆层,以防氧化。在Stern Frères的存档中,首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402ST的表盘颜色被命名为“夜色蓝1 + 云50”(Bleu Nuit 1 + N50)。其中,“云”字源于为蓝色表盘涂清漆前,向液体清漆中滴入少量黑色液滴后形成的云雾弥漫般的效果。\u003C/p>",[433,438,443,446],{"fileReference":434,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":435,"altText":436,"assetPagePath":437,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f481df5e-4b41-4965-995c-ceedea2b5d4e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","三款Ref. 5402ST表盘,1970–1980年。受当时工艺所限以及制作过程中不同曝光度影响,三款表盘呈现细微的颜色差异。©爱彼档案图片","Three 5402ST dials, between 1970 and 1980","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/3_cadrans_5402_tiffv2",{"fileReference":439,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":440,"altText":441,"assetPagePath":442,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--6bf472e0-9344-4c07-97be-8ca35555880a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST表盘,1972年。Ref. 5402ST腕表编号A26,表壳编号67026,机芯编号127059。1972年6月16日售予瑞士洛桑Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","A Royal Oak 5402 dial, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_cadranfacetiffv20",{"fileReference":444,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":440,"altText":441,"assetPagePath":445,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--6a623671-0434-48ea-a993-a9a8460d1773/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_cadranaptiffv2",{"fileReference":447,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":448,"altText":449,"assetPagePath":450,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--22817539-dc49-45b0-9878-6d85ffff7f75/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST表盘背面,1972年。表盘背面不见光照,保留了原有的蓝色调。Ref. 5402ST腕表编号A26,表壳编号67026,机芯编号127059,1972年6月16日售予瑞士洛桑Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","Backside of the Royal Oak 5402 dial, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_cadrandosgravuretiffv2",[99,100],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":453,"gridClassNames":8,":items":454,":itemsOrder":480,":type":101},{"text":7,"title":7,"carousel":7},{"title":455,"text":458,"carousel":460},{"id":456,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":457,":type":76},"title-0e08ce33d4","Calibre 2121机芯",{"text":459,":type":110},"\u003Cp>为给Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表提供动力,爱彼与杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)选择了当时世界上最纤薄的具有日历功能的中央摆陀自动上链机械机芯:Calibre 2121。这款惊艳时代的超薄机芯厚度仅有3.05毫米,直径12½法分(28毫米),动力充沛,坚实耐用,在表坛享负“永动机”的盛名。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Calibre 2121机芯衍生于Calibre 2120机芯,后者于1967年由LeCoultre & Cie制表厂、爱彼、江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)联合开发。当时,这三家公司在产销方面保持着密切的协作关系。从1964年6月9日爱彼致LeCoultre & Cie表厂的一封信中,我们不难看出研发新款超薄机芯的紧迫性和难度:“过去三四年里,客户一直在苦苦等待。他们越来越无法理解,为什么超薄奢华腕表的制表专家打造出的却是市面上最厚的自动上链腕表!”三家公司的高管多次会面商讨。1966年8月19日,爱彼董事会主席兼创意总监Jacques-Louis Audemars在LeCoultre & Cie制表厂会见了江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)副总经理安德烈•戈伊(André Goy)、LeCoultre & Cie技术总监让•勒贝特(Jean Lebet),以及莫里斯•奥德马斯(Maurice Audemars),后者被认为是Calibre 2003和Calibre 2120机芯的设计者。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1967年,Calibre 2120机芯问世后,首先搭载于杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)设计的爱彼Ref. 5271表款中。机芯采用全尺寸中央摆陀并由轴承支撑额外重量(专利系统),上面镌刻爱彼品牌(Audemars Piguet)字样,总厚度仅有2.45毫米。随后,Calibre 2120机芯开始广泛应用于爱彼时计中,同年生产的另外十几个表款共计650多枚腕表搭载了这一机芯。1970年,Calibre 2121机芯面世,在Calibre 2120机芯基础上添加了日历功能,厚度仅增加0.6毫米。此后直至2021年底,Calibre 2121机芯一直是Royal Oak皇家橡树系列“Jumbo”表款的标配。\u003Cbr />\r\n\u003C/p>",{"images":461,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":129},[462,468,474],{"fileReference":463,"mobileFileReference":464,"caption":465,"altText":466,"assetPagePath":467,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e8cffee9-c1f9-4fe1-b059-7a3d1f7486b4/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--fafcda7e-f2a1-4dda-a441-4784f1882624/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 2120/2121机芯,1967–2011年,表底视图。超薄自动上链机芯,直径28毫米(12½法分)。Calibre 2120机芯(1967–2006年)与Calibre 2121机芯(1970–2011年前后)的表底设计风格一脉相承。机芯编号127053,产于1970年。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","Caseback side of Calibres 2120 and 2121, 1967–2011","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_mouvementdostiffv3",{"fileReference":469,"mobileFileReference":470,"caption":471,"altText":472,"assetPagePath":473,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e0976f25-27e7-42fa-b21e-11f915dee53a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--efc70ebb-e88c-4923-8322-eb09e6fc2613/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 2121机芯,1971年,表盘视图。最为纤薄的配备中央摆陀和日历功能的自动上链机芯(3.05毫米),通过围绕外缘圆形轨道转动的红宝石轴承支撑摆陀额外重量。直径28毫米(12½法分),247个部件,摆轮频率19,800次/小时。衍生于Calibre 2120机芯(1967年),机芯编号127053。爱彼博物馆典藏。","Dial side of Calibre 2121, 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_mouvementfacetiffv30",{"fileReference":475,"mobileFileReference":476,"caption":477,"altText":478,"assetPagePath":479,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--6b398042-0178-4f1a-b48d-7e6e538fc595/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9cc528f2-1934-4da3-b33d-73b3e39af787/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","巴塞尔钟表展爱彼展台,1970年。1950年代以来,爱彼一直被公认为是超薄腕表领域翘楚。1970年,爱彼推出当时世界上最纤薄的机芯Calibre 2121,进一步巩固其在该领域的先锋地位。该机芯两年后搭载于Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表。©爱彼档案图片","Audemars Piguet Showcase at the Basel Fair in 1970","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1970_event_bale_standvitrineb04-09btiff0",[99,131,132],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":482,"gridClassNames":8,":items":483,":itemsOrder":512,":type":101},{"text":7,"title":7,"carousel":7},{"title":484,"text":487,"carousel":489},{"id":485,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":486,":type":76},"title-468977bda4","Gay Frères制作的第一款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表表带",{"text":488,":type":110},"\u003Cp>杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)设计的Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表表带,虽然不是钟表史上第一款一体化精钢表带,但它却是有史以来最复杂的精钢表带,共由154个部件构成,包括34种不同尺寸的表带链节。这款表带的美学设计与精湛技艺,使手工工艺与精钢运动表带这两大平行世界完美相融:前者根植爱彼精研数十年的珠宝设计,后者源于欧米茄(Omega)、劳力士(Rolex)等品牌的量产防水系列腕表。爱彼的目标是以匠心工艺打造一款前所未有的运动表带。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>为实现这项创举,爱彼转向行业翘楚——日内瓦表带制造商Gay Frère寻求合作。Gay Frère由让-皮埃尔•盖伊(Jean-Pierre Gay)与加斯帕尔•天梭(Gaspar Tissot)于1835年创立,最初专注链条生产,20世纪起转攻表链表带,与众多知名时计品牌都有合作,在业内声名鹊起。例如,Gay Frère为劳力士(Rolex,1998年收购Gay Frère)打造了蚝式(Oyster)腕表表带,为百达翡丽(Patek Philippe)生产米粒表带,还与萧邦(Chopard)等瑞士钟表制造商建立合作关系。1970年代,Gay Frères成为首屈一指的精钢表带专家,其日内瓦工坊雇员超过500人,是爱彼的六倍之多。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>尽管Gay Frères工匠经验丰富,设备精良,但仍无法达到爱彼的润饰要求。因此,每条表带都必须送回布拉苏丝(Le Brassus),与Favre-Perret出产的表壳一道,由爱彼制表师手工打磨润饰,而后进行组装。1972年Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表正式推出后,爱彼又对表带进行改进,以达到预期品质和人体工程学设计要求,实现链节与表壳连接处逐渐收窄的设计效果。随着Royal Oak皇家橡树系列不断扩展,更多公司开始参与工艺繁复、要求严苛的表带制作,包括Fontana、Lascor、GTF以及Centror,位于日内瓦梅兰(Meyrin)的Centror现已隶属爱彼。\u003C/p>",{"images":490,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":129},[491,496,502,507],{"fileReference":492,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":493,"altText":494,"assetPagePath":495,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--288d3fa4-d49a-4418-8e8a-4e228ab847c7/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表表带固定链节设计手稿,1971年。从图示可以看出,连接宽度递减表带链节的固定链节尺寸不尽相同。©爱彼档案图片","Sketch of the studs on the first Royal Oak bracelet in 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971_esquisse_braceletroyaloaktiff",{"fileReference":497,"mobileFileReference":498,"caption":499,"altText":500,"assetPagePath":501,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--df973af6-bc4e-4cc3-862e-eeb767d8d485/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--de452f8b-f392-4610-a4db-a54015bf82cd/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表表带,编号344,1972年。配备于Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST腕表,编号A26,表壳编号67026,机芯编号127059,1972年6月16日售予瑞士洛桑Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","First Royal Oak bracelet, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_braceletfacetiff-copiev3",{"fileReference":503,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":504,"altText":505,"assetPagePath":506,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--7fcfb20d-d994-4ef5-9487-812b1e0750a6/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","表带,编号344,1972年。由日内瓦表带制造商Gay Frères生产,用于第一代Royal Oak皇家橡树39毫米超薄腕表,1980年代末逐渐被编号944的表带取代。表带目录。©爱彼档案图片","Royal Oak bracelet 344, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_bible_bracelets03000005tiffv2",{"fileReference":508,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":509,"altText":510,"assetPagePath":511,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--8a6d2fc7-8999-496e-929b-a37734736c67/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Gay Frères广告,1970年。在Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表之前,Gay Frères很少生产宽度递减的金属表带,其折叠式表扣采用覆盖扣式设计。©《名表世界》(Europa Star),贸易简报1970年11月刊(总第687期),第14页。","Advertisement of Gay Frères showing the Royal Oak metal bracelets in 1970","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pub-gay-freres",[99,131,132],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":514,"gridClassNames":8,":items":515,":itemsOrder":538,":type":101},{"threeimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":516,"text":519,"threeimages":521},{"id":517,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":518,":type":76},"title-7d9aa1efd3","巴塞尔钟表展的首秀……杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)的离开",{"text":520,":type":110},"\u003Cp>时至1971年4月,此时距杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)绘出设计初稿已过去整整一年。巴塞尔钟表展开幕在即,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)借“三剑客”聚齐之机,向他们展示了Royal Oak皇家橡树的白金原型表款。显而易见,爱彼确有能够撼动行业之绝技!Carlo de Marchi和Charles Bauty均有意订购400枚,总计800枚。乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)遂决定生产1,000枚精钢腕表,认为其余200枚可以分销至全球其他市场。研发工作又持续一年,但杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)未参与其中。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)心怀创业梦想,渴望走出幕后,创立个人品牌。1969年,他迈出了第一步。“我悄悄设计了属于自己的时计系列。1969年12月25日,我与法国珠宝品牌斐登(Fred)谈下120枚腕表的订单。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1972年,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在巴塞尔展推出了个人品牌的第一个款型——表圈点缀13个金质螺丝的木制腕表,这也意味着他与爱彼合作关系的终结。\u003C/p>",{"images":522,":type":368},[523,528,533],{"fileReference":524,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":525,"altText":526,"assetPagePath":527,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--bba23e04-5f71-47db-9ecf-6ea429249f4d/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","巴塞尔钟表展爱彼展台,1971年,展示了多款不同形状的腕表,多配备编织表带。©爱彼档案图片","Audemars Piguet showcase at the Basel Fair in 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971_event_bale_standvitrineb04-091tiff",{"fileReference":529,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":530,"altText":531,"assetPagePath":532,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--3813b78e-aa64-4a62-a2d2-3a23a7cbca65/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼宣传册(封面),1971年。比例规(左)和用于镂刻机芯部件的小型钢锯(右)两个制表工具组成“AP”字样。©爱彼档案图片","Cover of Audemars Piguet brochure in 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971_catalogue_aptiff0",{"fileReference":534,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":535,"altText":536,"assetPagePath":537,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--61a42b0f-89e4-4e49-ad21-7de3957453aa/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)同名品牌首款腕表,名为“À la gloire de Christophe Colomb”(致敬哥伦布),1972年,于巴塞尔钟表展亮相。22K金质表盘,木质表圈,点缀13颗金质螺丝。©名表世界(Europa Star),1972年,第73期,第74页。","Close up of the first wristwatch model \"À la gloire de Christophe Colomb\" by Gérald Genta in 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/montre-genta-en-bois-1972v20",[99,131,370],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":540,"gridClassNames":8,":items":541,":itemsOrder":562,":type":101},{"threeimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":542,"text":545,"threeimages":547},{"id":543,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":544,":type":76},"title-81f4f025c7","限量1,000枚?",{"text":546,":type":110},"\u003Cp>1971年5月19日,Jacques-Louis Audemars向Favre-Perret订购了1,000只精钢表壳。这是爱彼有史以来单一表款的最大订单。要知道,1971年,爱彼全年总共售出6,217枚时计,囊括237个不同表款,且每个款型本身又采用各式表盘和材质进行多元化演绎。仅有23个款型单款产量超过100枚,有145款单款产量不到10枚,更有55款为仅生产单枚的孤品时计。对比之下,1,000枚数量之大,不言自明。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>现在我们知道,Royal Oak皇家橡树第一代Ref. 5402ST表款先后生产超过6,000枚。然而,在1971年,对布拉苏丝(Le Brassus)的某些制表工匠以及爱彼的部分传统客户而言,单一表款生产1,000枚堪称“海量”,令人震惊。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>据杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)、爱彼博物馆前馆长马丁•威尔利(Martin K. Wehrli)及其他消息来源称,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)原本计划将Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402ST表款的总产量限制在1,000枚。如此一来,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表将成为爱彼的首个限量表款。据杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)所言,该表款大获成功,让乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)不得不“食言”,一再增加产量。他回忆道:“乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)不愿继续生产Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表,因为这显得他言而无信。他是一个追求非凡品德的人。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼的历史档案中又有哪些相关记载呢?第一份表壳订单上清楚写明,“请在6点钟下方从1到1,000进行编号”,即在每一枚腕表的底盖上镌刻专属编号。值得注意的是,自Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表诞生之日起,爱彼就调整了腕表的编号系统,增加了“序列号”,即从1开始的一组连续数字,用于给单一表款编号。更多相关信息,请参阅另一篇专门讨论Royal Oak皇家橡树系列编号系统的文章。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>然而,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)最终没有限产1,000枚。他依然坚持限量版的理念,但巧妙摆脱了这一概念的束缚。1972年的一则爱彼广告或许能带我们略窥一二:“Royal Oak皇家橡树限量版腕表,每一枚均带有专属编号(Chaque exemplaire des séries limitées de Royal Oak est numéroté)。”广告词指明该表款为限量版,但没有明确具体数量。此外,法语原文中“限量版(séries limitées)”一词用了复数形式,为Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402ST表款推出A、B、C、D等不同序列号提供了合理解释。\u003C/p>",{"images":548,":type":368},[549,554,558],{"fileReference":550,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":551,"altText":552,"assetPagePath":553,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f9759e98-6c47-44b2-a813-28d66bb4cbd5/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","向表壳制造商Favre-Perret订购1,000只Ref. 5402表壳的订单,1971年。当年5月19日,Jacques-Louis Audemars为Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表订购了1,000只精钢表壳,表壳研发历经数月,其间订单上的注释日渐增多。第1/2页。©爱彼档案图片","Order document for 1,000 of Model 5402 cases from Favre-Perret in 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971_commande_boite5402atiffv20",{"fileReference":555,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":556,"altText":552,"assetPagePath":557,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--58380115-b246-43ee-97d1-8511e81e62e1/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","向表壳制造商Favre-Perret订购1,000只Ref. 5402表壳的订单,1971年。当年5月19日,Jacques-Louis Audemars为Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表订购1,000只精钢表壳,表壳研发历经数月,其间订单上的注释日渐增多。第2/2页。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971_commande_boite5402btiffv2",{"fileReference":559,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":556,"altText":560,"assetPagePath":561,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--70fe4269-21fc-4ac4-a61d-e1bacf266cf2/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Order document for 1,020 Model 5402 dials","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971-commande-premiers-cadrans-royal-oak",[99,131,370],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":564,"gridClassNames":8,":items":565,":itemsOrder":576,":type":101},{"title":7,"textimage":7},{"title":566,"textimage":569},{"id":567,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":568,":type":76},"title-9c034c9581","荣获专利",{"text":570,"image":571,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":146},"\u003Cp>初版设计完成约一年半后,爱彼于1971年12月6日正式向瑞士联邦知识产权局提交了“防水表壳”的专利申请。专利申请编号为17724/71,发明人一栏写着杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>这项发明在1974年9月公布,1975年1月荣获专利权。由此,这款“结构简洁、性能卓越,兼具全新美学外观的防水表壳”获得专利保护。专利资料提到螺丝周围可能存在渗水风险,但未提及会采用实金材质制作螺丝以避免氧化。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":572,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":573,"altText":574,"assetPagePath":575,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--0e9e574e-f3b6-4222-9f38-c788bcaef0f8/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表首个专利,1971年。当年6月,爱彼提交专利申请,申报发明人为杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)。专利于1974年9月30日公布,编号17724/71。©爱彼档案图片","First Royal Oak publicated patent, in 1971 ","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/0023_tiff",[99,167],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":578,"gridClassNames":8,":items":579,":itemsOrder":597,":type":101},{"twoimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":580,"text":583,"twoimages":585},{"id":581,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":582,":type":76},"title-e41213672d","第一枚拥有专属名的爱彼时计",{"text":584,":type":110},"\u003Cp>为一款新表命名并非易事,名称需要体现品牌价值、历史底蕴、彰显独特个性、引发丰富遐想,同时还要琅琅上口、易于记忆。从品牌创立至1971年,爱彼从未命名过任何表款,令起名这件事难上加难。在此之前,爱彼腕表的唯一标识是表款编号或来自于钟表藏家的昵称。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1971年5月,爱彼为这款全新八角形腕表暂取了一个与狩猎相关的名称——Jacques-Louis Audemars在表壳订单中使用了“游猎”(Safari)一名。据参与开发该表款的制表师丹尼斯•卡普特(Denys Capt)回忆,“亚瑟王之剑”(Excalibur)也曾被纳入考虑范围。杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)本想围绕启发他设计灵感的潜水装备命名,这也是其防水专利的灵感之源(几年后他凭借百达翡丽Natutilus鹦鹉螺腕表成功申请专利),但这一想法并不可行。首先,潜水表款在1960年代迎来第一个黄金发展时期,开辟出全新运动腕表细分领域,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表虽具有100米防水性能,但并未满足潜水表的全部技术标准。第二,也是更重要的一点是,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表极尽精细繁复之美,抛光与缎面打磨的表面、机刻雕花表盘均为手工润饰,远非潜水表或运动表所能及!\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>至1971年9月13日,敲定名称一事还遥遥无期。据爱彼会议报告记载:“\u003Cu>Safari腕表\u003C/u>:......拟命名称和宣传语,需围绕运动精神、辽阔空间或蓬勃气概展开。建议名称有:大奖赛(Grand Prix)、狄安娜女神(Diane)、冲浪者(Surfrider)、科罗拉多(Colorado)、乞力马扎罗山(Kilimanjaro)、峡谷(Canyon)、牛津(Oxford)、阿斯科特(Ascot)、耶鲁(Yale)等。”直到1971年12月2日,“Royal Oak”(皇家橡树)这一名称才出现在爱彼记载档案中。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>据在场人回忆,Royal Oak皇家橡树这一名称由意大利代理商Carlo de Marchi提出,得名于英国皇家海军的“皇家橡树”号战舰,当时最新一艘配备了金属装甲。这个名称也是向英国国王查理二世(Charles II)致敬,他正是藏身在一棵橡树中,才得以躲过克伦威尔将军(Cromwell)的追兵,随后这位国王将其封为“皇家橡树”。Royal Oak皇家橡树这一名称曾被赋予多种文化内涵:马术和海战、海洋历险、深藏保险箱的金银珠宝、命悬一线的国王、贵族盔甲、救命之树等,蕴藏着丰富传奇故事,具有各种解读可能。\u003C/p>",{"images":586,":type":396},[587,592],{"fileReference":588,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":589,"altText":590,"assetPagePath":591,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":96,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--045ffe9d-4efe-4e64-806c-38359783335d/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","英国国王查理二世(Charles II,1630–1685)肖像,1660年前后。1651年,查理二世(Charles II)在伍斯特战役中,因藏身于一棵橡树得以躲过克伦威尔的追兵而保全性命,后将之封为皇家橡树。©图片来源:Hulton Archive/Getty Images。","Portrait of Charles II, King of England, circa 1660","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/gettyimages-51242983tiff",{"fileReference":593,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":594,"altText":595,"assetPagePath":596,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":96,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--617a86c4-c840-4195-8477-a41ea854a1a5/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","会议记录(摘录),1971年9月13日。在Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表问世六个月前,爱彼仍以“Safari”呼之,当时主要围绕运动精神、辽阔空间和蓬勃气概的语义取名。©爱彼档案图片","Minutes of the meeting (excerpt)","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971-seance-recherche-nom-royal-oak",[99,131,398],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":599,"gridClassNames":8,":items":600,":itemsOrder":623,":type":101},{"threeimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":601,"text":604,"threeimages":606},{"id":602,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":603,":type":76},"title-56c99cbcd7","寻求营销合作伙伴",{"text":605,":type":110},"\u003Cp>为宣传推广Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表,爱彼决定为其打造专属广告。这是爱彼史无前例之举。此前的广告营销活动均围绕品牌进行,通常会同时宣传多款产品。\u003C/p>\n\u003Cp>1970年代初,爱彼尚未建立起统一的品牌形象,主要市场的代理商和各大零售商可以自行开展营销活动。例如,在法国市场,爱彼的营销推广由De Trevars或江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)代理。这些营销活动因地而异,不同市场树立的爱彼品牌形象各不相同。与此同时,爱彼还委托瑞士的广告公司制定国际推广计划。在布拉苏丝(Le Brassus),爱彼营销团队还未见雏形,市场推广工作由乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)全权负责,他亲自接洽广告代理商,甚至直接与投放广告的刊物对接。\u003C/p>\n\u003Cp>1960年代,爱彼与瑞士洛桑TRIO广告公司合作紧密。TRIO是瑞士专营钟表营销推广的行业先锋,也是巴塞尔钟表展官方报刊《瑞士钟表杂志》(Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie)的出版单位。然而,60年代末,\u003Ca name=\"OLE_LINK5\" id=\"OLE_LINK5\">\u003C/a>乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)却决定寻找新的合作伙伴。爱彼的历史档案并未说明其中缘由,但结合当时背景不难猜测一二。1969年,爱彼与实力雄厚的瑞士钟表工业协会签订分销协议(详见前文),而TRIO与该协会关系亲密,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)之所以决定更换营销伙伴,或许是为了留出操控余地,不想把所有鸡蛋都放在同一个篮子里。很多决定都是在聚会牌桌上作出,这一决定或许也不例外。若是如此,恐怕牌桌上少不了时任Hugo Buchser广告公司总裁的吉尔伯特•梅拉德(Gilbert Maillard)。Hugo Buchser曾承担布拉苏丝(Le Brassus)跳台滑雪锦标赛的宣传工作,而乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)恰是锦标赛的主席和主要发起人。\u003C/p>",{"images":607,":type":368},[608,613,618],{"fileReference":609,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":610,"altText":611,"assetPagePath":612,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--5294553d-759d-4ac1-9097-2851fe705ce4/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼广告,1966年。这则广告展示了爱彼三款经典时计:迷你女装腕表(左)、超薄腕表(中)、经典大复杂功能怀表(右)。©爱彼档案图片","Audemars Piguet advertisement in 1966","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1970_environ_pubapparisb03-02original",{"fileReference":614,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":615,"altText":616,"assetPagePath":617,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ff88ba90-c062-43ae-9b6a-ab7f2d384321/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼广告(封面),1960年。该图尽显腕表纤薄,早在1950年就被用作宣传图片。此宣传册面向美国市场,其中还提到纽约第五大道上有一家爱彼销售门店。©爱彼档案图片","Audemars Piguet advertisement in 1960","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1960_catalogue_aprougev20",{"fileReference":619,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":620,"altText":621,"assetPagePath":622,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--3fc15ad2-a830-4ac9-8249-a02b1dc4a339/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼宣传册(封面),1964年。传统与现代交融,巴洛克风格的背景框与前景的Ref. 5212腕表相得益彰。©爱彼档案图片","Extract of an Audemars Piguet brochure, 1964","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1964_leaflet_ap_couverturetiff",[99,131,370],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":625,"gridClassNames":8,":items":626,":itemsOrder":649,":type":101},{"threeimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":627,"text":630,"threeimages":632},{"id":628,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":629,":type":76},"title-dc58fe1dfa","广告代理商Hugo Buchser",{"text":631,":type":110},"\u003Cp>Hugo Buchser是一家始创于1927年的家族企业,如今已发展成广为人知的名表世界公司(Europa Star HBM S.A.)。创始人胡戈•布赫(Hugo Buchser,1896–1961)酷爱旅行,是一位活力四射的优秀企业家、出版商和钟表商,曾开创Transmarine钟表品牌,并在南美、亚洲、非洲、西班牙、瑞士、中东、葡萄牙等地发行多本钟表刊物。1961年胡戈•布赫(Hugo Buchser)去世后,公司由他的女婿吉尔伯特•梅拉德(Gilbert Maillard)接管。这位新任掌门是乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)的好友,也是杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)的昔日同窗。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Hugo Buchser主营出版业务,也设有广告代理服务团队,提供产品摄影、广告语策划、平面设计、广告宣传、营销策略咨询等相关服务。广告业务规模日渐壮大,吉尔伯特•梅拉德(Gilbert Maillard)与海因茨•海曼(Heinz Heimann)在1975年将出版与广告业务拆分,成立了一家独立的广告公司,负责推广爱彼品牌直到1998年。这是后话,让我们先回到1960年代末。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1969年至1971年,Hugo Buchser在广告宣传中,突出展示硕大的爱彼商标、醒目的蓝绿金配色及爱彼精品时计,重新为爱彼树立起鲜明的品牌形象。自此以后的20年间,“大师杰作,卓尔不凡”(La plus prestigieuse des signatures)的广告语深入人心。\u003C/p>",{"images":633,":type":368},[634,639,644],{"fileReference":635,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":636,"altText":637,"assetPagePath":638,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--09876d8f-ff57-4ca5-9938-d2a31fc2f361/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼宣传单(封面),1970年。日内瓦编辑及广告公司Hugo Buchser(《名表世界》(Europa Star)杂志前身)在广告中应用“AP”标志,后来杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在设计首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表时,也将这一元素加在表盘上。©爱彼档案图片","Extract of an Audemars Piguet leaflet, 1970","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1971_leaflet_ap_monogrammetiffv2",{"fileReference":640,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":641,"altText":642,"assetPagePath":643,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--070bcbff-481c-45a2-9312-64c573a10781/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼广告,1970年。灵动的色彩,醒目的图形设计,无配文——广告代理商Hugo Buchser为爱彼打造的首则广告,开启了爱彼品牌宣传的新篇章。©爱彼档案图片","Audemars Piguet advertisement in 1970","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1970_pub_ap_vertetiff0",{"fileReference":645,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":646,"altText":647,"assetPagePath":648,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a1cb029a-2f39-43ac-b95e-7ee6bb65e942/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","爱彼宣传册(封面),1972年。一位抽着雪茄的女子腕间佩戴着“Arabella”Ref. 8545高级珠宝腕表。©爱彼档案图片","Advertising leaflet cover with a woman smoking a cigar and the high jewelry watch \"Arabella\", model 8545 on her wrist, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_pub_ap_vertetiffv30",[99,131,370],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":651,"gridClassNames":8,":items":652,":itemsOrder":708,":type":101},{"carousel_copy":7,"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":653,"textcarousel":656,"carousel_copy":684},{"id":654,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":655,":type":76},"title-d4dbaa7ce8","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表市场推广",{"text":657,"images":658,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>对广告公司来说,推广Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表这样一款意义非凡的产品实属机会难得!Royal Oak皇家橡树系列的商标很可能在Hugo Buchser的办公室进行了调整。随后,Buchser广告团队着手撰写宣传文案。1972年2月,文案基调已然奠定:“充满活力而又独具品位的男士已不再满足于常规的运动腕表。他们心目中的腕表应该能更好地契合运动不止、精彩无限的生活方式。为此,爱彼的艺术与制表大师倾力打造出这款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表,采用造就现代大教堂的精钢材质,比纯金材质更耐久,以至臻工艺铸就珍贵杰作。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>至1972年4月,Hugo Buchser广告团队还在打磨文案、照片、宣传单和广告语,主打超薄机械机芯、八角形表圈、六角形螺丝等亮点。有两大要点始终贯穿整个宣传活动:其一是“向精钢材质致敬”,其二是Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表凝聚了设计、运动、工艺、创新等多重元素,是对现代世界的隐喻,也象征着目标客户多元化的个性特征。值得一提的是,路虎公司(Land Rover)当时新推出的揽胜(Range Rover)车型同样重塑了彼时的汽车行业格局。1973年初,宣传册中加入了英国国王查理二世(Charles II)为躲避克伦威尔将军(Cromwell)的追兵而藏身于一棵橡树的故事,以及英国皇家海军“皇家橡树”号战舰等信息。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1972年9月13日的一份档案显示,这一年爱彼广告预算总额高达950,000瑞士法郎,其中印刷广告费占一半以上。文件没有记载Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的广告支出占比,但肯定大大超过了该表款当年产值和营业额的6%至7%。从这份文件还可看出当时公司层面的惯常做法——了解爱彼的全球客户,包括进口商、代理商、零售商的广告投入金额。\u003Cbr />\r\n\u003C/p>",[659,664,669,674,679],{"fileReference":660,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":661,"altText":662,"assetPagePath":663,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--992345b7-ad72-4735-a9bb-09babc84a5cb/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表广告,1972年。广告文案围绕精钢材质展开,图形设计也以八角形精钢表圈为焦点,两者巧妙呼应。©爱彼档案图片","Audemars Piguet advertisement in 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/22_1_v20",{"fileReference":665,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":666,"altText":667,"assetPagePath":668,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--31c2ce0f-273e-4053-8aad-ba7f7faa1b24/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表首篇宣传文案初稿,1971年。由广告代理商Hugo Buchser撰写,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)亲自把关。文案着眼于腕表的卓越品质,强调它契合当下精彩纷呈的生活方式。©爱彼档案图片","The first draft of Royal Oak arguments, 1971","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/22_1_20",{"fileReference":670,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":671,"altText":672,"assetPagePath":673,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--8b7fa87e-0c11-4a81-a22f-a09624b33b35/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表广告,爱彼与爱马仕(Hermès)联合打造,1973年。19世纪以来,爱彼常与其他著名品牌合作分销爱彼时计。©爱彼档案图片","Royal Oak advertisement in collaboration with Hermès, 1973","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/22_1_3",{"fileReference":675,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":676,"altText":677,"assetPagePath":678,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d6717a71-671b-402e-b1df-98178a5af059/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表广告,1972年。除了有腕表正面照,还有细节特写,突显手工润饰的表壳、八角形表圈以及精致表盘设计。©爱彼档案图片","Royal Oak advertisement, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/22_1_4",{"fileReference":680,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":681,"altText":682,"assetPagePath":683,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--4664dbf8-295f-4c53-8599-ca0fe3c292b2/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表首本宣传册,1972年。黑白图形设计尽显腕表美学特质,详尽的文字介绍专供经销商参考。©爱彼档案图片","Extract of an Audemars Piguet leaflet, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/22_5_v2",{"images":685,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":129},[686,692,696,700,704],{"fileReference":687,"mobileFileReference":688,"caption":689,"altText":690,"assetPagePath":691,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9dd525d8-5c2d-40cd-8ad5-b5734c3398f9/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a041253b-aeec-49ce-b146-e7b32a06dc29/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表宣传册(封面),1973年。发布于Ref. 5402腕表问世一周年之际,介绍了腕表的设计、防水性能、外部件结构以及Royal Oak皇家橡树名称的由来。©爱彼档案图片","Extract of an Audemars Piguet brochure, 1973","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1973-leaflet-royal-oakcouv0",{"fileReference":693,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":694,"altText":690,"assetPagePath":695,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--c940d090-d408-4e15-9503-c7acd0754395/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表宣传册(第1、2页),1973年。发布于Ref. 5402腕表问世一周年之际,介绍了腕表的设计、防水性能、外部件结构以及Royal Oak皇家橡树名称的由来。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1973-leaflet-royal-oakp1",{"fileReference":697,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":698,"altText":690,"assetPagePath":699,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--408cf17e-c735-4019-9b70-07c85dc036e4/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表宣传册(第3、4页),1973年。发布于Ref. 5402腕表问世一周年之际,介绍了腕表的设计、防水性能、外部件结构以及Royal Oak皇家橡树名称的由来。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1973-leaflet-royal-oakp3",{"fileReference":701,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":702,"altText":690,"assetPagePath":703,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--beef2a1f-e544-438b-9492-151cbab7c3e5/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表宣传册(第5、6页),1973年。发布于Ref. 5402腕表问世一周年之际,介绍了腕表的设计、防水性能、外部件结构以及Royal Oak皇家橡树名称的由来。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1973-leaflet-royal-oakp2",{"fileReference":705,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":706,"altText":690,"assetPagePath":707,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--85558f32-7750-4b28-87e6-d5e38bc76e0e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表宣传册(第7、8页),1973年。发布于Ref. 5402腕表问世一周年之际,介绍了腕表的设计、防水性能、外部件结构以及Royal Oak皇家橡树名称的由来。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1973-leaflet-royal-oakp40",[99,100,342],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":710,"gridClassNames":8,":items":711,":itemsOrder":733,":type":101},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":712,"textcarousel":715},{"id":713,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":714,":type":76},"title-4d705f5c57","正式面世前的最后准备",{"text":716,"images":717,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表正式发布后,仍在不断研发改进,但1972年巴塞尔钟表展开幕前的数月时光令人尤为难忘。紧张气氛四处弥漫,人人兴奋而忙乱,甚至变得脾气暴躁。2020年一份文档记述,据制表师威尔弗雷德•伯尼(Wilfred Berney)回忆,当时Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表被视为“怪物”,爱彼长于微型时计和镂空工艺,而这款腕表“与我们以往的工作内容和经验毫无关联”。大家都在想,“打造这么一枚硕大的钢表所为何故?高管解释说,意大利市场期待一款前所未有的精钢运动腕表。如果一切听凭意大利人发号施令......那我们就会完全失去主导权!”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>参与这次市场冒险之旅的制表师弗雷迪•卡普特(Fredy Capt)表示,他组装第一批精钢原型表款时,“全无计划,仅凭直觉”。他回忆道,最初六角形螺丝采用精钢材质,“并非100%防锈,导致表壳无法拆卸”。螺丝的六个角切割利落,十分尖锐,“制表师不得不用打磨工具手工钝化棱角”。弗雷迪•卡普特(Fredy Capt)和同事下班后经常把零件带回家进行“微调”。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>弗雷迪•卡普特(Fredy Capt)的工坊紧挨Jacques-Louis Audemars和乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)的办公室。据他回忆,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)钟爱雪茄,一天早上来到工坊,脸色阴沉地说道:“我想我们是疯了,这个价格的钢表肯定卖不掉!”他还说,“如果卖不掉,我们就回收机芯,把表壳表带报废。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>对于当时仅有84名员工的爱彼而言,尚无心无力筹建自己的测试实验室。据弗雷迪•卡普特(Fredy Capt)回忆,为测试腕表的防水性能,Jacques-Louis Audemars在窗台上放了一个水罐,标签上写着“与世界最咸的海水浓度一致”,里面挂着一枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>让我们回到1972年4月12日的布拉苏斯,此时距巴塞尔钟表展开幕还有三天。组装部负责人保罗•海兹曼(Paul Heizmann)亲自完成首批20枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的封装工序。腕表编号67001至67020,偶数表款将交付意大利代理商Carlo de Marchi,奇数表款送往瑞士代理商Charles Bauty处,其中四枚运至巴塞尔钟表展展出。\u003Cbr />\r\n\u003C/p>",[718,723,728],{"fileReference":719,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":720,"altText":721,"assetPagePath":722,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--efe142b6-d3a4-4ff6-94a9-0bbbf4134f17/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","工作台前的制表师,1972年前后。这位制表师正在组装Calibre 2121机芯,腕间佩戴着最早的Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表。©爱彼档案图片","Watchmaker at the bench assembling a Calibre 2121 and wearing one of the very first Royal Oak watches on his wrist, circa 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/story_100_23_1_2000pxv2",{"fileReference":724,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":725,"altText":726,"assetPagePath":727,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--bdeddf9d-e99a-44df-b445-b7095bcaf01d/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表首次登刊,1972年2月。Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表在正式发布前两个月首次亮相杂志,与几款相对低价的Bero腕表一同参与评测,意在进行市场预热。白金原型表款60647,表圈螺丝未对齐。©《瑞士钟表》(The Swiss Watch),1972年2月刊。","Extract of the first Royal Oak publication, February 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_article_royaloakthewatchtiff0",{"fileReference":729,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":730,"altText":731,"assetPagePath":732,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e99e687d-c698-45e7-bb8e-0c3fc1d2f1c9/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表第二次登刊,1972年3月。巴塞尔钟表展开幕几周前,专业杂志《瑞士钟表》(Die Schweizer Uhr)独家报道了Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表。图为白金原型表款60647,表底尚未镌刻Royal Oak皇家橡树标志,表圈六角形螺丝也未对齐。这枚原型表款或为伊朗国王定制,于1972年7月完成制作并售出。图片来源:《瑞士钟表》(Die Schweizer Uhr),1972年3月30日。","Extract of the second publication on the Royal Oak, March 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/mars-1972-royal-oakv3",[99,100],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":735,"gridClassNames":8,":items":736,":itemsOrder":747,":type":101},{"title":7,"textimage":7},{"title":737,"textimage":740},{"id":738,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":739,":type":76},"title-e09880cadc","表圈螺丝:阿喀琉斯之踵",{"text":741,"image":742,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":146},"\u003Cp>在2020年的一份文档中,制表师威尔弗雷德•伯尼(Wilfred Berney)回顾了早期遇到的主要困难,包括表扣尺寸过大,表带逐渐收窄的设计需要增加固定链节等问题。最重要的是,八颗螺丝最初采用精钢材质,海水渗入导致盐分侵蚀螺丝,使其与表壳锈蚀粘连。“杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)著名的‘潜水头盔’被阻塞,幸好里面没有人!”解决方案是将精钢螺丝更换为不易腐蚀的实金材质,1972年便开始实施这一方案。对于客户返修的腕表,制表师要竭尽聪明才智,有时还需创造新工具,将腕表修复如初。威尔弗雷德•伯尼(Wilfred Berney)解释,尽管水会由螺丝周边渗入,但极少进入机芯,超大密封圈可保证100米防水深度。查阅封装记录可证实此言非虚。1972年售出的首批100枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表,截至1982年只有四枚因防水问题返修。Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表早期出现的少数几个问题很快得到解决,该系列得以蓬勃发展。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":743,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":744,"altText":745,"assetPagePath":746,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--38befca1-a360-4656-a08b-a6962b11d058/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402腕表的贯穿螺丝。八颗六角形螺丝穿过表圈上八个形状相同的开孔,由八个螺母从表底紧固,以压紧密封垫圈。","Close up of Model 5402's through screws","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_vis_tiff",[99,167],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":749,"gridClassNames":8,":items":750,":itemsOrder":773,":type":101},{"threeimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":751,"text":754,"threeimages":756},{"id":752,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":753,":type":76},"title-e5a48de1c5","“世界上最昂贵的精钢腕表”",{"text":755,":type":110},"\u003Cp>说到Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表正式发布之前,我们先来说说它的定价。或许是因为广告上偶尔会注明Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的价格,这款腕表的定价在业内最为轰动。1972年,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表定价3,300瑞士法郎。随着时间的推移与货币单位的不同,腕表价格有所浮动,1974年为756英镑,1975年在3,650至3,750瑞士法郎之间,1976年为1,100英镑、1,950美元。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>对比同时代其他精钢腕表的价格,悬殊之大一目了然。由于没有官方记录,我们查阅了当时的相关人士和腕表藏家的资料进行求证。马可•斯特兰格里尼(Marco Stanghellini)在2016年7月发表的Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表指南中写道:“在意大利,劳力士潜航者(Rolex Submariner)腕表的价格不到它的三分之一,万国工程师(IWC Ingenieur)腕表更是不及它四分之一。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>2009年,杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在接受康斯坦丁•斯蒂卡斯(Constantin Stikas)采访时提及,“当时市场上除皇家橡树腕表之外最昂贵的精钢腕表价格是850瑞士法郎”。事实上,采用精钢表壳的Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表售价与实金表款不相上下,甚至更加昂贵。例如,爱彼1972年的产品目录显示,搭载Calibre 2003超薄机芯的Ref. 5043黄金腕表售价为2,990瑞士法郎。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼的广告代理商Hugo Buchser不但没有回避定价争议,反而在广告中顺势围绕价格吸引消费者:“是什么让精钢贵于黄金?”;“你会因为画布精美而购买伦勃朗的画吗?”;“贵比黄金的精钢材质”;“世界上最昂贵的精钢腕表”。广告紧接着会解释,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表采用精细复杂的表壳制作工艺,搭载象征着微型化工艺巅峰的Calibre 2121超薄自动上链机芯,更凝聚着能工巧匠的精妙传统技艺,稀世臻品物有所值!“爱彼设计师的巧手赋予精钢材质高贵地位。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>这样的宣传深入人心。1974年,爱彼的一本零售商手册标题即为“爱彼腕表何以世界最贵?”手册并非只介绍Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表,但基本观点仍是将腕表的高价值归功于制表大师的非凡技艺。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1976年,百达翡丽(Patek Phillippe)推出鹦鹉螺(Nautilus)腕表时所用宣传也呼应了这一点。他们将售价1,400英镑的鹦鹉螺(Nautilus)腕表定位为“世界上最昂贵的精钢腕表之一”,同时强调“制表大师的超凡技艺”以及“既适合正式场合也适合休闲佩戴”的多功能特点。\u003C/p>",{"images":757,":type":368},[758,763,768],{"fileReference":759,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":760,"altText":761,"assetPagePath":762,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9e12cd7d-35ac-495a-865d-d5bd0adffe12/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","面向美国市场的Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表广告插页,1974年。广告以“世界上最昂贵的精钢腕表”为宣传亮点,随后解释Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表搭载当时世界上最纤薄的中央摆陀自动上链机芯,更凝聚着能工巧匠的精妙传统技艺,稀世臻品物有所值。©爱彼档案图片","Advertisement insert on the Royal Oak, 1974","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pub-royal-oak-1974v2",{"fileReference":764,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":765,"altText":766,"assetPagePath":767,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ea2c76d2-2d02-4dd0-86f4-6bd275a62ca2/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5043BA超薄腕表,1972年。这款配备当时世界上最纤薄机芯Calibre 2003(1.64毫米)的黄金腕表定价2,990瑞士法郎,比Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST精钢腕表价格低10%。©爱彼档案图片","Extract of a leaflet showing the ultra-thin wristwatch, Model 5043, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_modele_5043ultraplattiff0",{"fileReference":769,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":770,"altText":771,"assetPagePath":772,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9fc265dc-ae1e-464f-ad5e-537099f4e355/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","多款腕表产品广告,1974年前后。Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表位置醒目,占据最大画幅。文案主要围绕这款精钢腕表的高昂价格展开,并阐释具体理由。©爱彼档案图片","Advertisement for multiple Audemars PIguet products, circa 1974","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1974_pub_royal_oakpricegoldbo3-02tiff0",[99,131,370],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":775,"gridClassNames":8,":items":776,":itemsOrder":804,":type":101},{"threeimages":7,"title":7,"textimage":7},{"title":777,"textimage":780,"threeimages":787},{"id":778,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":779,":type":76},"title-3a2b907357","正式发布与市场反响",{"text":781,"image":782,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":146},"\u003Cp>1972年,巴塞尔钟表展增设五号展馆,展览面积增至20,000平方米。展会首次向法国、德国、英国、意大利钟表品牌敞开大门,次年更名为“欧洲钟表珠宝博览会”(European Watch and Jewellery Fair)。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼展位位于一号馆545号,面积仅60平方米,与劳力士(Rolex)展位大小相当。爱彼四周都是“圈内好友”:对面有浪琴(Longines)和瑞士钟表工业协会(SSIH),其展位面积分别是爱彼的两倍和五倍;江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)、积家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)亦与爱彼相距不远。档案显示,爱彼当时展出了四枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表,表壳编号为67002至67004,序列号为2至4。但档案中再无关于本次展会的其他记载,亦无首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的订单或任何直接资料,甚至连展台或展柜的照片都没有。《瑞士钟表杂志》(Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie)对这一新表款只字未提,仅有《名表世界》(Europa Star)刊登了两张配文照片。更离奇的是,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)在1973年5月3日提交给爱彼董事会的年报中表示,“1972年在产品方面没有太大变动”。就这样,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表轰轰烈烈面世之后,仿佛石沉大海般归于沉寂。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>但据几位亲历者回忆,这款腕表问世后曾引起轰动。1975年至1999年间为爱彼设计众多表款的杰奎琳•迪米耶(Jacqueline Dimier)在2006年表示:“那年春天,各界人士涌入巴塞尔钟表展上的爱彼展位。我们当时既惊讶又激动,无需过多解释便能意识到,这是衔接传统制表业与面向未来的工业设计美学的一步重大跨越。”据杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)回忆,展会期间,执掌瑞士制表品牌玉宝(Ebel)的好友皮埃尔-阿兰•布鲁姆(Pierre-Alain Blum)向他表示祝贺,并称,“我刚从爱彼展位过来,为我的朋友佩兰(Perrin\u003Ca name=\"_Hlk96025376\" id=\"_Hlk96025376\">\u003C/a>)订购了Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表”。布鲁姆(Blum)当时负责为卡地亚(Cartier)打造整个Must-have系列,他口中的“朋友”正是时任卡地亚总裁阿兰-多米尼克•佩兰(Alain-Dominique Perrin)。首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的影响力很快超越了制表界的小圈子,获得当时的钟表收藏大家——伊朗国王礼萨•巴列维(Rezah Pahlavi)的青睐。他看到Royal Oak皇家橡树原型表款的预展后,当即订购了一枚白金特别款和几枚精钢表款。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>溢美之词中也夹杂着质疑和犹豫。当时社交媒体尚未出现,批评声未见诸文字,但亲历者的只言片语给我们留下了线索,表明首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表曾在高端钟表界引发争议。1973年3月,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)面向瑞士市场发表演讲时低调表示,“这款腕表让爱彼成为了大家的谈资”,还提到了“某些客户的怀疑态度”。1992年,马丁•威尔利(Martin K. Wehrli)在《爱彼品牌传略》中写道:“爱彼宣布以高达3,650瑞士法郎的售价推出这款精钢腕表,引起了业界人士的质疑。”杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)也曾表示,“它并非成功的典范……”。爱彼董事会主席Jasmine Audemars在2013年的一次专访中证实,“Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表面世之初非议不断”,因为它“打破了当时的行业常规”。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":783,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":784,"altText":785,"assetPagePath":786,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f0f1bcea-1bb6-4d41-ab86-ca82b6f73821/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","巴塞尔钟表展广告,1972年。当年展会首次向法国、德国、意大利钟表品牌敞开大门。©《名表世界》(Europa Star),1972年双月刊第1期,第85页。","Basel Fair advertisement in 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/europastar_europe07319720010085original0",{"images":788,":type":368},[789,794,799],{"fileReference":790,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":791,"altText":792,"assetPagePath":793,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--3ba64772-d219-448d-980e-a3e0d712c10e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表首次刊登于《名表世界》(Europa Star)“巴塞尔钟表展速递”专栏,1972年。从设计来看,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表属于运动腕表,但从润饰工艺、纤薄设计和机芯来看,则属高级钟表。©《名表世界》(Europa Star),1972年双月刊第1期(总第73期),第60–61页。","First publication on the Royal Oak in Europa Star's Basel Fair Flash, 1972 ","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/europastar-72-flash-royal-oak",{"fileReference":795,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":796,"altText":797,"assetPagePath":798,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--189bdf82-356e-4c7b-9127-830d6d137c10/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","巴塞尔钟表展平面图,1972年。爱彼展位有幸被安排在展厅中央位置,展位号1545,与江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)和积家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)相邻。《瑞士钟表杂志》(Journal suisse d'horlogerie),1972年。©拉绍德封国际钟表博物馆典藏系列(Musée International d’Horlogerie de La Chaux-de-Fonds Collection)。","Map of the Basel Fair, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_plan_foire_debaledansjshhall1original0",{"fileReference":800,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":801,"altText":802,"assetPagePath":803,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a1249f34-8ae9-4716-977e-9cfe2e69bd9e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表首次刊登于《名表世界》(Europa Star)“巴塞尔钟表展速递”专栏,1972年。从设计来看,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表属于运动腕表,但从润饰工艺、纤薄程度和机芯来看,则属高级钟表。©《名表世界》(Europa Star),1972年双月刊第2期(总第74期),第44–45页。","First publication on the Royal Oak in Europa Star's Basel, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/europastar-72-deuxieme-parutioncopie0",[99,167,370],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":806,"gridClassNames":8,":items":807,":itemsOrder":830,":type":101},{"twoimages":7,"title":7,"textimage":7},{"title":808,"textimage":811,"twoimages":818},{"id":809,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":810,":type":76},"title-60e64282cc","初期交付",{"text":812,"image":813,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":146},"\u003Cp>2017年,曾在1972年负责爱彼销售的马丁•威尔利(Martin Wehrli)在其未出版的回忆录中写道,第一笔订单来自伦敦杰拉德(Garrard)珠宝行销售代表罗恩•史密斯(Ron Smith)。据称,这位受命于英国女王陛下的销售代表曾调侃道:“Royal Oak(皇家橡树)是伦敦一家酒吧的名字。”回忆录还写道:“直到1974年7月8日,爱彼才将首枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表交付高级珠宝和腕表品牌海瑞温斯顿(Harry Winston)时任主管,表壳编号67001,机芯编号127006。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>面对大规模生产这一严峻考验,最初几个月可谓状况百出。除了部件交付延期,组装过程也面临着返工。4月共产出20枚,最早完成的5枚于5月2日交付意大利代理商,而5月一整月仅有10枚完成封装。6月产量有所提高,共制作95枚,但7月仅完成了8枚。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>随着制表师逐步攻克难关,交付效率从8月开始大幅提升。到1972年底,工坊共制作完成565枚,顺利交付490枚!这意味着,问世后仅八个月,Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402腕表便打破了爱彼单一表款的单年销售记录。爱彼的孤注一掷是否值得?只待零售商的销售业绩和后续订单量了。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":814,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":815,"altText":816,"assetPagePath":817,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--2ae173a4-f716-44b2-88e4-1615a4d90530/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST腕表,编号A26,1972年。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号127059,表带编号344,T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表壳编号67026,直径39毫米,精钢。1972年售予Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","Close up of the Royal Oak, reference 5402ST, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_gp22tiff",{"images":819,":type":396},[820,825],{"fileReference":821,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":822,"altText":823,"assetPagePath":824,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9e7330f0-3541-49f0-b13b-2af8df11ba24/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST腕表,编号A26,1972年,表底视图。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号127059,表带编号 344,T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表壳编号67026,直径39毫米,精钢。1972年售予Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","Caseback view of the Royal Oak wristwatch, reference 5402, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_3_tiff",{"fileReference":826,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":827,"altText":828,"assetPagePath":829,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f7bc8ed0-b41a-4a7d-b521-ce2e3456ecc8/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST腕表,编号A26,1972年,侧视图。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号127059,表带编号344,T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表壳编号67026,直径39毫米,精钢。1972年售予Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","Side view view of the Royal Oak wristwatch, reference 5402, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_0365_4_tiffv20",[99,167,398],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":832,"gridClassNames":8,":items":833,":itemsOrder":851,":type":101},{"twoimages":7,"text":7,"title":7},{"title":834,"text":837,"twoimages":839},{"id":835,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":836,":type":76},"title-c9e8d42111","一鸣惊人还是无人问津?",{"text":838,":type":110},"\u003Cp>2010年以来,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表上市遇冷的说法大行其道,虽然它并不符合当时的事实。马丁•威尔利(Martin K. Wehrli)与海因茨•海曼(Heinz Heimann)在纪念Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表问世40周年的书中回忆道:“两大主要市场用了整整三年时间才将各自订购的400枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表售出.......直到1974年的一天,工业巨贾、菲亚特汽车公司(FIAT)创始人乔瓦尼•阿涅利(Giovanni Agnelli)戴着这款腕表出现在公众视野,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表才真正打开销路,一段精彩故事自此拉开序幕。”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>硬币的另一面则是一个迥然不同的故事。1973年3月,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)称Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表“一路热销”。同年5月,他写道:“Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的畅销证明客户的喜好已然改变。”8月22日,他将广告预算增加50%,并聘请一名工程师创建技术部门,着手扩大爱彼规模。爱彼的营业额由1973年的1,300万增至1974年的1,800万,到1975年达到2,500万。1982年2月6日,乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)在一次采访中表示:“Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表一经上市便大获成功。”出版社Flammarion于2011年出版的《爱彼:源自1875年的制表大师》(Audemars Piguet: Master Watchmaker Since 1875)一书中则称,这款腕表“大受欢迎”,令爱彼不得不“扩大生产规模、改进传统工艺”。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>具体数据如何呢?1972年,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表产量近500枚,1973年突破500枚,1974年618枚,1975年至1976年每年近600枚,1978年推出黄金表款后增至820枚。在50年后的今天回看这些数字,或许会觉得微不足道,但在当时却是相当可观。\u003C/p>",{"images":840,":type":396},[841,846],{"fileReference":842,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":843,"altText":844,"assetPagePath":845,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--70e80f22-91e4-4a17-8e50-2cf7be26a9ef/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表展台,1972年。三枚Ref. 5402腕表及两个专属表盒,置于弧形细拉丝铝质展板上。1972年9月摄于洛桑瑞士展销会(Comptoir Suisse)。©爱彼档案图片","Royal Oak showcase with three examples of Model 5402, 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1972_vitrine_comptoirsuisseroyaloaktiffv20",{"fileReference":847,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":848,"altText":849,"assetPagePath":850,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e0fb9ad4-4522-4a90-9602-6e768856fba3/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表展位,1973年。当年,爱彼参加了与圣保罗艺术双年展(São Paulo Art Biennial)同期举行的瑞士国家博览会(Expo Suiza),专门展出Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表。©爱彼档案图片","Royal Oak Stand in 1973, Expo Suiza","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1973_vitrine_saopauloroyaloakb04-12tiffv2",[99,131,398],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":853,"gridClassNames":8,":items":854,":itemsOrder":874,":type":101},{"textcarousel":7,"table_copy":7,"title":7},{"title":855,"textcarousel":858,"table_copy":871},{"id":856,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":857,":type":76},"title-f4769ea3cf","传奇历程拉开帷幕",{"text":859,"images":860,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表1972年正式发布,开拓市场的最初几年,瑞士每年可售出150至200枚,亚洲地区订单数量相当,德国市场亦不乏拥趸。法国市场反响相对平淡,但也不断增长,唯独意大利市场的表现出人意料。推动这款腕表问世的重要人物之一、意大利代理商Carlo de Marchi确如杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)所言,竭尽全力推广但腕表依然销路不畅。1972年,Carlo de Marchi售出89枚腕表,1973年降至35枚,次年仅为31枚,1975年和1976年分别售出36和44枚。爱彼商业档案显示,1971年Carlo de Marchi订购400枚腕表,而意大利市场实际销售量刚刚过半。难道是“詹尼•阿涅利(Gianni Agnelli)效应”?它的确令人记忆深刻,但不太会产生过多商业影响。还有一个因素无从评估,即一些意大利零售商可能直接由瑞士订购腕表……无论是何原因,1976年至1977年,Royal Oak皇家橡树系列凭借黄金款以及更为小巧的29毫米和35毫米黄金精钢双色表款(Ref. 8638、Ref. 4100及相近款式),才最终征服了意大利市场。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>尽管Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表问世后不乏争议批评,但它所引发的这股热潮也推动其实现巨大商业成功,A系列由原定1,000枚增至2,000枚。1975年,爱彼推出B系列,次年随即发布C系列,1978年12月D系列也正式面世。Ref. 5402表款总计售出6,050枚,其中4,288枚为精钢材质,876枚为黄金和精钢的双色表款,736枚黄金款,150枚白金款。更重要的是,Royal Oak皇家橡树系列于1976年推出杰奎琳•迪米耶(Jacqueline Dimier)设计的女装表款Ref. 8638ST,随后又发布直径更小、设中央秒针的Ref. 4100表款。Royal Oak皇家橡树系列不断发展壮大,数十款不同材质、尺寸和复杂功能的表款层出不穷。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表成为时代传奇,引领瑞士钟表业不断推陈出新。杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)回忆称,几年后百达翡丽(Patek Philippe)委托他设计另一款精钢腕表鹦鹉螺(Nautilus)。1976年,这位日内瓦设计师又重新设计了万国工程师系列(IWC Ingenieur)。更多设计师也受到鼓舞创新制表工艺,例如约格•海塞克(Jörg Hysek)操刀设计的纵横四海(Overseas)Ref. 222腕表,由江诗丹顿(Vacheron Constantin)于1977年推出。\u003C/p>",[861,866],{"fileReference":862,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":863,"altText":864,"assetPagePath":865,"disableSharing":61,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--46b2df37-04cd-4308-956c-97bef1bd2438/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","瑞士钟表工业协会(SSIH)培训研讨会,1972年9月20日。300名英国零售商搭乘一架超大专机前往日内瓦参加瑞士钟表工业协会(SSIH)销售培训研讨会。乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)在会上展示了爱彼系列腕表,包括首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表。©《名表世界》(Europa Star),1972年双月刊第5期(总第77期),第23页。 ","Publication of a SSIH training workshop in 1972","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/europastar_europe07719720050023originalv20",{"fileReference":867,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":868,"altText":869,"assetPagePath":870,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a1418f93-fe0c-4bf4-87b2-1b7983033d37/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表广告,1977年。Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表问世五年后,爱彼首次推出贵金属材质款式和三款不同尺寸。从左至右:Ref. 4100BA黄金款(35毫米)、Ref. 5402ST精钢款(39毫米)、Ref. 8638SA精钢/黄金双色款(29毫米)。©爱彼档案图片","Royal Oak Advertisement, 1977","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/1977_pub_ro_1_tiff3",{"content":872,":type":873},"\u003Ctable cellspacing=\"0\" cellpadding=\"1\" border=\"1\">\r\n\u003Ccaption style=\"text-align: left;\">Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402表款销量,1972–1994年。从下表可以看出,首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表自1972年问世以来一路销量喜人。1974年推出的无序列号版本数量稀少,表明销量短暂受挫,但1975年很快便推出B序列,随后C、D序列也相继问世。\u003C/caption>\r\n\u003Ctbody>\u003Ctr>\u003Cth>\u003Cb>系列\u003C/b>\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>5402ST\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">A系列\u003C/p>\r\n\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>5402ST\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">不注明子编号\u003C/p>\r\n\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>5402ST\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">B系列\u003C/p>\r\n\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>5402ST\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">C系列\u003C/p>\r\n\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>5402ST\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">D系列\u003C/p>\r\n\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>5402ST\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp style=\"text-align: center;\">不注明任何字母\u003C/p>\r\n\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">精钢表款总销售量\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">5402SA\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">5402BA\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">5402BC\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">18K金表款总销售量\u003C/th>\r\n\u003Cth style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cp>总销售量\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>\u003Cb>5402\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003C/th>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>总销售量\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>1937\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>129\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>845\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>952\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>404\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>21\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>4288\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>876\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>736\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">\u003Cb>150\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1762\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>6050\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1972\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">490\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>490\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>491\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1973\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">543\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>543\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>543\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1974\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">614\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>616\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>616\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1975\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">243\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">120\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">228\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>591\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>591\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1976\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">7\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">569\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">10\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>586\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>586\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1977\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">13\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">5\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">23\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">459\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>500\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">92\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">95\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>188\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>688\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1978\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">4\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">3\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">234\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>242\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">299\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">231\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">50\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>580\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>822\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1979\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">6\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">7\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">223\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">15\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>251\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">180\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">122\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">45\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>347\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>598\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1980\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">10\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">7\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">15\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">129\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>161\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">92\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">135\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">37\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>264\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>425\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1981\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">4\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">5\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">87\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>98\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">126\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">51\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">5\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>182\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>280\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1982\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">4\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">70\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>76\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">39\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">22\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">3\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>64\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>140\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1983\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">53\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>54\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">9\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">19\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>30\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>84\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1984\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">20\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>22\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">6\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">23\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>29\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>51\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1985\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">10\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>10\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">6\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">9\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>17\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>27\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1986\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">6\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>7\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">6\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">13\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>19\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>26\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1987\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">5\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>7\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">10\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">3\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>13\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>20\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1988\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">7\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">5\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>12\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">8\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>12\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>24\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1989\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">10\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>13\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">4\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">3\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>8\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>21\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1990\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">6\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>6\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">3\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">2\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>5\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>11\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1991\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1992\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1993\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>2\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1994\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003Ctr>\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>2002\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\">1\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\" width=\"87\"> \u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003Ctd style=\"text-align: center;\">\u003Cb>1\u003C/b>\u003C/td>\r\n\u003C/tr>\u003C/tbody>\u003C/table>\r\n","apchronicles/components/table",[99,100,875],"table_copy",{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":877,"gridClassNames":8,":items":878,":itemsOrder":905,":type":101},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":879,"textcarousel":882},{"id":880,"linkDisabled":32,"type":74,"text":881,":type":76},"title-181eaf44ad","结语",{"text":883,"images":884,"imageControlIconColor":96,":type":97},"\u003Cp>Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表不仅仅是一枚腕表,更是设计和文化产物,以及时代象征。1972年,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的诞生成为奢华时计的又一标杆。彼时,一场深刻的文化艺术变革正如火如荼,金融和石油危机令步履维艰的瑞士钟表业雪上加霜,应运而生的Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表在多重因素影响下不断发展演进。它的诞生是每一位历史参与者共同的结晶:瑞士钟表工业协会的代理商敏锐觉察客户的喜好变化,向爱彼大胆建议;乔治•格雷(Georges Golay)知人善任,激发出每一位参与者的创作灵感;杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在一夜之间拿出设计初稿;业界顶级的表盘制造商、表壳制造商、制表师、广告商各显其能,以精益求精的追求共同打磨出这一传承历史、着眼未来的非凡之作。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1982年,乔治•格雷(George Golay)这样总结Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的成功秘诀:“它兼具优雅格调与运动风范,直到现在都少有表款能够二者得兼。”换言之,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表或可称为是业内首个运动时尚标杆之作。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp> \u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>编委会:爱彼历史传承团队,布拉苏斯\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>首刊于:2022年1月24日\u003C/p>",[885,890,895,900],{"fileReference":886,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":887,"altText":888,"assetPagePath":889,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ec19aeef-d54d-4086-a5d8-f417be18efd2/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 12517BC腕表,2000年。Calibre 2120SQ镂空机芯,机芯编号399622,镂空表盘,镶嵌明亮式切割钻石和长阶梯型切割钻石。表壳编号E9919,直径39毫米,18K白金。专为纪念爱彼创立125周年打造的孤品时计,2000年12月在新加坡售出。©Pygmalion系列。","Close up of the Royal Oak Openworked wristwatch, reference 12517BC, 2000","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_botinelli31tiffv2",{"fileReference":891,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":892,"altText":893,"assetPagePath":894,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--df0ccd58-5361-4fc9-9a63-783a5f149a89/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","万年历:星期、日期、月份和月相显示。Calibre 2120/2800超薄机芯(3.95毫米),机芯编号374056,表带编号944。表壳编号D41976,直径39毫米,精钢/铂金双色。限量25枚,第6枚。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1046。","Close up of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar wristwatch: day, date, month, moon phase","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_1046_1_tiff",{"fileReference":896,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":897,"altText":898,"assetPagePath":899,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--b2dc71b9-450f-4daa-b9bb-b486d7d6ce1d/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 25865ST大复杂功能腕表,1997年。万年历:星期、日期、月份和月相显示,三问报时,追针计时。Calibre 2885机芯,表带编号1105,Petite Tapisserie小格纹表盘。精钢表壳,原型表壳编号P00039,直径44毫米。于日内瓦国际高级钟表展(SIHH)亮相推出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 617。","Close up of the Royal Oak Grande Complication wristwatch, reference 25865ST, 1997","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/pa_inv_617_2_tiff",{"fileReference":901,"mobileFileReference":82,"caption":902,"altText":903,"assetPagePath":904,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--5102939a-49b6-4c77-b885-e514a2250c72/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 15202PT腕表,2021年。日期显示,Calibre 2121机芯,净面烟熏放射纹绿色表盘。稀有的Royal Oak皇家橡树系列非限量“Jumbo”铂金表款,表壳直径39毫米。摄于发布会现场。©爱彼档案图片","Close up of the Royal Oak \"Jumbo\" wristwatch, reference 15202PT, 2021","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/ro_15202pt-oo-1240pt-01sdttiff",[99,100],[907,908,909,910,911,912,913,914,915,916,917,918,919,920,921,922,923,924,925,926,927,928,929,930,931,932,933,934,935,936],"chapter","chapter_709412286","chapter_1284638959","chapter_298689459","chapter_1269260500","chapter_1341951574","chapter_1534647050","chapter_1925215155","chapter_358991553","chapter_1009232348","chapter_1929878312","chapter_1024786170","chapter_827932345","chapter_335807877","chapter_961933233","chapter_1911103356","chapter_985695551","chapter_1688724688","chapter_1403332721","chapter_1883674883","chapter_1718273778","chapter_1018226717","chapter_487855978","chapter_88260638","chapter_1798856488","chapter_460431567","chapter_1155740374","chapter_1010695591","chapter_1038540153","chapter_1875074732","apchronicles/components/container",{"relatedContent":939,":type":1316},[940,947,953,959,964,969,975,980,985,991,997,1004,1009,1014,1019,1025,1031,1037,1043,1049,1056,1062,1067,1072,1077,1083,1088,1093,1098,1103,1108,1113,1118,1123,1128,1133,1138,1143,1148,1153,1158,1163,1168,1173,1178,1183,1188,1193,1198,1203,1209,1213,1218,1223,1229,1234,1239,1244,1249,1254,1260,1265,1270,1275,1280,1285,1290,1295,1301,1306,1311],{"title":941,"path":942,"image":943,"duration":946,"templateType":28},"Royal 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Oak皇家橡树腕表:从颠覆传统到羽翼渐丰","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/articles/1976-1982-from-enfant-terrible-to-full-fledged-collection",{"fileReference":973,"mobileFileReference":973,"caption":31,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":31,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f1534e2b-dbe2-40e0-aa80-ecf4dab1583c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","30",{"title":976,"path":977,"image":978,"duration":974,"templateType":28},"非凡工艺,传奇故事","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/articles/guillochage-tapisserie",{"fileReference":979,"mobileFileReference":979,"caption":31,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":31,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--996b382c-4745-4a03-a7bf-994c4e7f6f25/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true",{"title":981,"path":982,"image":983,"duration":49,"templateType":28},"Royal Oak皇家橡树系列日历腕表 1983–1996 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