AP Chronicles的在线目录是爱彼品牌传承团队多年探索研究的成果,旨在汇编Royal Oak皇家橡树系列从1972年问世至今的历史参考资料。
第一批文章以及相关表款和机芯技术数据现已上线。上线内容中包括详细追溯Royal Oak皇家橡树系列起源的文章,并首次揭秘珍贵档案照片和独家信息。
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爱彼Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表在制表领域久负盛名,它的故事堪称传奇。我们查阅大量原始档案、采访记录以及公开发布或尚未发表的资料,梳理了这款腕表自1970年孕育创意至1972年4月15日问世的历史,以全新视角讲述各阶段的重要人物与精彩故事。
The first complication adopted by the Royal Oak was the calendar. Between 1983 and 1984, the famous octagonal watch was successively enriched with Day-Date, moon phase and perpetual calendar functions. This article reviews the origins of calendars in different civilisations, tells their history at Audemars Piguet and discusses the key stages in their deployment across the Royal Oak collection from 1983 to 1996.
“Jumbo”一词源于19世纪初英国方言,指巨大的人或动物,1880年代因伦敦动物园一头远近闻名的大象取名“Jumbo”而日渐流行。
第一枚Royal Oak皇家橡树表款Ref. 5402由杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在一夜之间设计完成,历经两年研发,于1972年在巴塞尔钟表展上正式亮相。这款非凡杰作赋予精钢材质尊贵地位,以全新“休闲时尚”设计理念,开启了爱彼品牌和高级钟表业的新篇章。
Calibre 2121机芯于1970年问世,是在1967年推出的Calibre 2120机芯的基础上演进而来,增加了窗口式日期显示功能,厚度增至3.05毫米,是当时世界上最纤薄的配有中央摆陀和日历功能的自动上链机械机芯。
Designed in one night by Gérald Genta, the first Royal Oak model was presented in 1972 at the Basel Fair, after two years of development. This extraordinary watch elevated steel to a new status. By introducing the notion of "casual chic", it opened a chapter in the history of Audemars Piguet and Haute Horlogerie
The first Royal Oak with calendar complications in addition to the aperture-type date display, Model 5572 was a response to extremely strong market demand.
On April 5, 1984, the opening day of the Basel Fair, Audemars Piguet presented the very first Royal Oak with a perpetual calendar, Model 5554, soon renamed 25554.
Model 25594 is a direct descendant of the Royal Oak Day Date 5572 created in 1983. Developed at the same time but presented a year later, Model 25594 adds a moon-phase aperture endowing the dial with remarkable aesthetic balance.
Calibre 2124/2825 consists of a basic selfwinding mechanism (2124) to which watchmakers added the 2825 cadrature, also known as the 2825 module, which indicates the day, date and moon phase.
Designed by Jacqueline Dimier and presented in 1977, the Royal Oak 4100 is also known as the Royal Oak III in the archives because it represents the third model in the collection, succeeding the 5402 and 8638.
The gemsetting of this jewellery variation of Model 25636 makes it highly recognisable. The case middle, the bezel and the links of the tapering bracelet are all entirely set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
This model is part of the long tradition of Audemars Piguet pocket watches, which has its roots in the 19th century.
1976年,爱彼推出Royal Oak皇家橡树第一款女装腕表Ref. 8638ST,仅推出精钢款。在此之前,问世于1972年的Ref. 5402ST是皇家橡树的唯一表款。Ref. 8638腕表直径29毫米,搭载小型Calibre 2062自动上链自产机芯(改造于Rayville和LeCoultre & Cie生产的基础机芯)。
1976年,Royal Oak皇家橡树II,即首款女装腕表Ref. 8638ST问世,是1972年推出的第一枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的首个衍生表款。这或许让人颇感意外,但实际上,Royal Oak皇家橡树原型表款虽极具运动风范与男性气概,但其中亦不乏女性特质,因为珠宝设计出身的杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)在设计这款腕表时,希望它呈现出如钻石般丰富的光影效果。
1977年问世的Ref. 4100表款由杰奎琳•迪米耶(Jacqueline Dimier)设计,是继Ref. 5402ST和Ref. 8638ST之后Royal Oak皇家橡树系列的第三枚表款,也是该系列首个配备中央秒针的表款。