\r\n\u003C/p>","white","apchronicles/components/textcarousel",[97,98],"title","textcarousel","apchronicles/components/chapter",{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":101,":items":102,":itemsOrder":113,":type":99},{"title":8,"textimage":8},{"title":103,"textimage":106},{"id":104,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":105,":type":77},"title-faa328d550","盘制造商Stern Frères的技术资料",{"text":107,"image":108,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":112},"\u003Cp>在“时代传奇的诞生”(Birth of an Icon)一文中,我们回顾了Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402表款的表盘研发历程。当时,日内瓦著名表盘制造商Stern Frères意外获得一批古董雕花机器,建议设计师杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)用这些机器为Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表表盘打样。文章还讲述了图案选定过程以及工匠选择电镀工艺上色的原因。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>2016年Stern Créations停业,将部分档案移交客户。这一业界鲜见之举对于制表知识和专业技术传承大有裨益,受到各方赞赏。爱彼获得30余米文件,包括数千份计划书、文件、订单、信函和不同表款的表盘设计等。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>其中,就有第一枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的表盘设计图(如图)。纸板一侧粘贴“基准表盘”,旁边列有技术说明,遗憾的是多数说明已无从解读。本文将对仍可辨识的几项参数加以详述,如“Tapisserie T21”格纹图案、“夜色蓝”(Bleu Nuit 1 + N50)色调、“缎面打磨”、“超薄12/100”AP标识,以及镂空“trit”(涂氚)时标。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":109,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":110,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":111,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1bf4d3df-dd49-437d-8a2b-6dba70773dd2/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Stern Frères生产的首款Ref. 5402表盘技术参数,1971年前后。附有原型表盘,详细记录了表盘技术特征,列有“夜色蓝”(Bleu Nuit)和“云50”(N50或Nuage 50)的颜色命名。T21 Tapisserie指机刻雕花格纹装饰图案。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/2_v20","apchronicles/components/textimage",[97,114],"textimage",{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":116,":items":117,":itemsOrder":146,":type":99},{"title":8,"carousel":8,"textimage":8},{"title":118,"textimage":121,"carousel":127},{"id":119,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":120,":type":77},"title-89a019024c","Tapisserie T21,即Petite Tapisserie小格纹装饰图案",{"text":122,"image":123,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":112},"\u003Cp>在Stern Frères档案中,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表表盘上的机刻雕花图案标注为“T21”,即“Tapisserie No.21”(21号Tapisserie格纹)的缩写。Tapisserie这个名字值得一提。制表界尤其是钟表收藏人士,习惯用Tapisserie来指代Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的表盘图案,原因在于这款腕表久负盛名。据瑞士高级制表基金会(Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie)网站介绍,Tapisserie是指“类似织锦的一种重复性图案,由图案模具引导压印工具在专门的玫瑰车床上来回移动制作而成”。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Stern Frères档案中多数Tapisserie图案为花卉或阿拉伯式蔓藤花纹。T21格纹图案灵感来自至少可追溯至18世纪的“\u003Ci>Clous de Paris\u003C/i>”巴黎钉纹机刻图案,其基本元素为方形底座的小金字塔。T21格纹首先用于Ref. 5402腕表,1976年后在Royal Oak皇家橡树系列中广泛应用,特别是Ref. 8638和Ref. 4100等表款。21世纪初,图案更名为Petite Tapisserie小格纹,与1999年推出的Grande Tapisserie大格纹相呼应,几年后小格纹被大格纹取代。2012年,Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表诞生40周年之际,Ref. 15202腕表再次启用Petite Tapisserie小格纹,6点位置还标注“AP”字样。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":124,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":125,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":126,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a02b920d-6d76-4671-a04f-bf85e3c413cf/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Stern Créations S.A. 打造的不同Tapisserie图案,1981年前后。Tapisserie指表盘机刻雕花工艺,而非具体的重复图案,这种工艺能够雕刻出多种图案。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/3_1_test",{"images":128,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":145},[129,133,137,141],{"fileReference":130,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":131,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":132,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--6b21383b-939d-4dfc-b173-140810609a38/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","T18 Tapisserie花卉图案表盘,1975年前后,由Tapisserie机刻雕花工艺雕刻而成,用于Ref. 5417和Ref. 5423表款。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/3_2_v4",{"fileReference":134,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":135,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":136,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1bf9b40e-d90e-4b72-8c3e-02f6746561d1/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","制作Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402的“经典部件”表盘,2021年。这一古老的T21 Tapisserie格纹模具(左)自1970年代保存至今,2021年被重新启用,用于以古老工艺复原、制作Ref. 5402表盘。这些表盘复刻品秉承传统机刻雕花工艺,专为Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref.5402表款打造,用于替换非原装或已无法修复的表盘。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/3_3_v4",{"fileReference":138,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":139,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":140,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--da862e30-1993-4844-9e27-3aa1015e10df/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 8638表盘款式,1976–1977年。Royal Oak皇家橡树系列首款女装腕表采用了与此前Ref. 5402类似的表盘设计:“夜色蓝”配色,T21 Tapisserie机刻雕花格纹装饰图案,AP字样首次移至12点位。图为表盘制造商Stern Frères的技术参数:上图为精钢款表盘,下图为精钢/黄金双色款岩灰色表盘。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/3_4_v5",{"fileReference":142,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":143,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":144,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--8a8c0f0b-48fd-43be-a594-8cd69e785b6f/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 4100、Ref. 4161、Ref. 4162表盘技术参数,1980年前后。所列几款表盘中,有三款采用T21 Tapisserie格纹装饰图案,此后该图案日益广泛地应用于Royal Oak皇家橡树系列表款。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/3_5_v4","apchronicles/components/carousel",[97,114,147],"carousel",{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":149,":items":150,":itemsOrder":165,":type":99},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":151,"textcarousel":154},{"id":152,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":153,":type":77},"title-9430e022e7","制作金字塔立体方格",{"images":155,"text":164,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":95},[156,160],{"fileReference":157,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":158,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":159,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--741ca27b-97da-4ff7-b080-e72c8cd44775/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402表盘细节,1970年代。表盘为手工制作,每一枚均独一无二。从表盘中心至日期视窗之间的金字塔立体方格数量为9至11不等。根据模具的磨损情况及机器的设置,方格的形状和底座不尽相同,日期视窗的边缘倒角及右侧分钟轨道的刻度线也可能略有差异。由上至下:Stern Frères的Ref. 5402ST表盘技术参数表对照图;Ref. 5402ST“夜色蓝”表盘,镌刻编号“6”、星形标识及“3126N4”字样(爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365);Ref. 5402BA“夜色蓝”表盘,镌刻“60021”字样(爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1134);Ref. 5402SA岩灰色表盘,镌刻“60021”和“00010”字样(爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446);Ref. 5402BA棕色镀金表盘,镌刻“60021”和“00010”字样(爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1610)。爱彼博物馆典藏资料及爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/4_1_v4",{"fileReference":161,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":162,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":163,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--4edc3373-b310-4388-ab39-874c326ffea8/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402表盘中心位置的变化,1970年代。1970年代,表盘中心与方格中心的相对位置各不相同。从左至右、由上至下:Stern Frères的Ref. 5402ST表盘技术参数表对照图;Ref. 5402ST“夜色蓝”表盘,镌刻编号“6”、星形标识及“3126N4”字样(爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365);Ref. 5402SA岩灰色表盘,镌刻“60021”和“00010”字样(爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446);Ref. 5402BA棕色镀金表盘,镌刻“60021”和“00010”字样(爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1610)。爱彼博物馆典藏资料及爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/4_2_v4","\u003Cp>1972年以来,Ref. 5402腕表表盘一直由特殊机器制作,我们曾专门撰文介绍过这些历史悠久的机器。最初的几十年中,受工作方法和制作工具影响,不同批次的表盘外观存在显著差异。2011年至2021年负责Tapisserie格纹表盘工坊的加拿大人马克•弗兰(Marc Ferland)解释称,虽然机器不断升级完善,但制作仍依赖手工,细微调整也可使雕刻效果大相径庭。“这些机器有点像缩放仪,可缩小并复制图案模具(\u003Ci>chablon\u003C/i>)。事实上,工匠并非简单复刻,而是用心演绎图案,稍加技巧,他们就能把方块变为花朵!”\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1970至1980年代,不同表盘上金字塔立体方格的中心位置略有差异(见插图)。方格大小有时也呈现丰富变化,不仅存在高度和宽度差异,连数量也不尽相同!如果要验证这一点,只消数一数日期视窗至表盘中心之间的方格数量。在同样的距离内,有些表盘有9个方格,有些却为10个甚至11个,最大浮差达20%!要知道,雕花机器使用的大模具磨损较快,必须定期更换,因其为手工制作,很难一模一样。此外,机器的调整也可使方格的大小和数量发生显著变化。\u003C/p>",[97,98],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":167,":items":168,":itemsOrder":187,":type":99},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":169,"textcarousel":172},{"id":170,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":171,":type":77},"title-20754d7b1f","50,000个菱纹格的奥秘",{"images":173,"text":186,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":95},[174,178,182],{"fileReference":175,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":176,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":177,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d6278192-9b5d-4dd9-ba32-2550cfdf71d3/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402表盘特写,1972年。越接近表盘中心,菱格纹小孔的间距越小,连缀成复杂交织的弧线,营造出丰富的光影效果。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/5_1_v2",{"fileReference":179,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":180,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":181,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--6fb0b393-274b-4680-9e24-9abbe3b9a50e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402表盘菱格纹特写,1972年。每一枚Ref. 5402的表盘上均缀以5万个微小的菱格。每个菱格的四个内面均可反射光线,赋予表盘灵动迷人的波纹效果。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/5_2_v2",{"fileReference":183,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":184,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":185,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--3bf08d58-8e4a-4c61-8888-8e499ce11c24/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 15500腕表表盘Grande Tapisserie大格纹特写,2020年。爱彼工艺团队改良了1950至1960年代机器的操作方式,将精准度提升至前所未有的境界。但弧线与方形的组合一直是Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Tapisserie格纹表盘精美动人的奥秘。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/5_3_v2","\u003Cp>在金字塔立体方格之间,以及部分方格顶部,微小的圆点连缀成线,产生丰富的光影效果。如马克•弗兰(Marc Ferland)所言,将表盘固定在雕花机上,使其绕轴旋转。转动过程中,刻刀尖端在表盘上打孔,但不会穿透金属,就像啄木鸟在树干上开凿洞穴。表盘旋转一周,打孔339.5次,刻刀向表盘中心移动1/11毫米。对于直径28毫米的表盘,要转动154圈,刻刀才能在整个表盘完成50,000余微孔的雕刻。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>然而,如果你走进马克•弗兰(Marc Ferland)的工作室,与他谈论这些“小圆点”,他会立即纠正你:“那不是小圆点,而是菱纹格!如果是圆点,表盘就不会闪烁微光。”每个菱纹格的四个内面均可反射光线。更重要的是,由于每一圈菱纹格数量相同,因此越接近表盘中心,小孔间距也越小。马克•弗兰(Marc Ferland)兴奋地说道:“越来越致密的菱纹格图案会形成新的弧线。”最后,他又做了一些技术性解释,其中夹杂着“玫瑰花形装饰”“凸轮”“理想角度”、“指针”等术语,解说热情洋溢,不过在外行听来还是略显深奥。\u003C/p>",[97,98],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":189,":items":190,":itemsOrder":200,":type":99},{"title":8,"textimage":8},{"title":191,"textimage":194},{"id":192,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":193,":type":77},"title-0fedbe8497","“夜色蓝”(Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50)色调",{"text":195,"image":196,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":112},"\u003Cp>表盘制造商Stern Frères在档案中将Ref. 5402ST腕表的表盘配色称为“Bleu Nuit 1 + N50”(“夜色蓝”),类似于一个调色公式。夜色蓝1号由Stern调配而成,一直是其不愿透露的商业机密。N50是“Nuage No. 50”(云50)的缩写,No. 50意指在表盘保护漆中混入的几滴黑色液滴,“Nuage”(云)据说是由于在液体清漆中混合黑色液滴后形成的云雾弥漫般的效果。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>蓝色向来是最难成功调配的颜色。调色时需将表盘浸入电镀浴,电镀溶液的配制至关重要,浸泡的时间和温度同样关键。过早取出,表盘会呈紫色,过晚则会变成黑色。此外,刚从电镀浴中取出的表盘灰调略重,涂上加入黑色液滴的保护漆层后,蓝色才会逐渐显现出来,这使得调色过程变得更加复杂。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>清漆具有固色作用,但仍无法阻止色泽的长期自然变化。长时间暴露在阳光或潮湿环境之下,色泽会逐渐发生改变,在表面形成一层时而与原色近似,时而又相差甚远的氧化层。确定原色须仔细研究表盘背面,而这只有技艺精湛、工具齐全的专业制表师才能打开。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":197,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":198,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":199,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--601ad0ca-cfb2-4103-bf57-bbc800e7ca74/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","三款Ref. 5402ST表盘,1970–1980年。受当时工艺所限以及制作过程中不同曝光度影响,三款表盘呈现细微的颜色差异。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/6_v2",[97,114],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":202,":items":203,":itemsOrder":226,":type":99},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":204,"textcarousel":207},{"id":205,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":206,":type":77},"title-adef652094","表盘背面暗藏玄机",{"images":208,"text":225,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":95},[209,213,217,221],{"fileReference":210,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":211,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":212,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--0260f1a4-7360-46bc-a69f-453fd6179f4f/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST表盘背面,1972年。表盘背面不见光照,保留了原有的蓝色调。Ref. 5402ST腕表编号A26,表壳编号67026,机芯编号127059,1972年6月16日售予瑞士洛桑Gameo。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_1_v4",{"fileReference":214,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":215,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":216,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--4d9b313c-08f6-4b06-9f7f-288495f8c39b/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402表盘背面的镌刻细节,1972年。第一个数字是表盘制造商Stern Frères的客户编号,星星为Stern Frères当时的标识,后面的数字或为订单编号。此款表盘装配于Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402ST(编号A26)中。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_2_v21",{"fileReference":218,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":219,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":220,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--399d6d28-15c0-4492-9d97-88334494c3b5/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表,1978年。这三枚表盘搭载于Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402黄金款腕表中,均于1978年售出,爱彼博物馆典藏编号分别为Inv. 1134、Inv. 1446和Inv. 1073。表盘背面少有翻新痕迹,显示腕表保存状况良好。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_33",{"fileReference":222,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":223,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":224,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--4cb2d41a-03ba-4a43-85b7-278a938dd2ec/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 14802腕表表盘背面,2000年前后。此前拆卸与重新组装表盘正面的时标和“AP”字样时,在表盘背面留下了22处细微的砂轮痕迹,显露出蓝色镀层下方的黄铜。 这是因为在翻新腕表时,表盘上镶贴的组件被取下重新上色,在表盘背面留下了痕迹。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/7_43","\u003Cp>不见光线的表盘背面隐藏于人们的视野范围之外,注定不能让人尽收眼底,但这里暗藏玄机,能够“述说”收藏人士和制表师希望了解的信息。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>一方面,表盘背面颜色与表盘原色更相近。爱彼品牌历史传承团队就曾在表盘背面意外发现微弱的紫色反光,这意味着1972年部分腕表的表盘颜色与我们通常认为的颜色相去甚远。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>另一方面,表盘背面刻有字样。赫尔穆特•克罗特(Helmut Crott)在《20世纪的表盘——腕表的“脸庞”》(\u003Ci>Le cadran, visage de la montre-bracelet au 20\u003Csup>e\u003C/sup> siècle\u003C/i>)一书中对镌刻字样进行了解读:“6表示制造商的客户编号,星星则是Stern Frères当时的标识。”后面的数字代表订单编号,爱彼档案亦有记载。此外,赫尔穆特•克罗特(Helmut Crott)还指出,4N(镌刻字样为“N4”)表示4N黄金色调,但这一说法未经证实,且爱彼实验室的分析表明,首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表所用底板是由一种名为Chrysoscale的铜质材料制作而成。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>通过观察表盘背面的颜色、润饰、镶爪和“AP”字样,制表师能一目了然地辨别出表盘是否曾被翻新过。重新处理表盘颜色需要对时标、标识等表盘部件进行拆卸和重装,通常会留下痕迹。\u003C/p>",[97,98],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":228,":items":229,":itemsOrder":243,":type":99},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":230,"textcarousel":233},{"id":231,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":232,":type":77},"title-1d8d3066ed","6点位置的超薄“AP”字样",{"images":234,"text":242,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":95},[235,239],{"fileReference":236,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":237,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":238,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ce3fead7-03ca-4b31-9431-6436c3a58831/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402ST表盘上的“AP”标识,1972年。白金材质的“AP”字母以两枚微小镶爪固定于表盘上,高度仅略超出0.1毫米。Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST腕表(编号A26)表盘特写。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_1_v2",{"fileReference":240,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":237,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":241,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--3248a37b-160d-4b45-9891-26ae18a969c0/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_2","\u003Cp>“AP”字样是首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表表盘上的一大独特元素,据现存资料记载,这是爱彼首次在表盘上应用这一设计。此前,爱彼曾在宣传材料中使用过并列的“AP”字母缩写,但从未将这一元素应用于腕表表盘。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>在Stern Frères技术参数表(详见前文第2部分)中,我们可以看到有一条红色提示,要求制表师确保“AP”字样的厚度不超过12/100毫米。首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表是一款名副其实的超薄腕表,表盘和水晶玻璃表镜的间距不足0.9毫米,所余空间仅够放置时针和分针。如此纤薄的白金字样制作工艺要求极高,字母“A”和“P”的竖条重叠,需要在两者之间刻出一条细小的分割线,仅0.002毫米深,相当于发丝直径的一半。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>另一条值得收藏人士注意的提示是“Symb AP 945缎面打磨”,意指需要对Stern Frères编号945的AP标识进行缎面打磨。事实上,过去“AP”标识多采用缎面打磨工艺,如今转用抛光润饰,爱彼档案并未说明这一转变的原因。爱彼客户服务团队有以下几种假设,试图对此作出解释。一种观点认为,在如此纤薄的部件上进行缎面打磨难度极高。另一种观点认为,抛光润饰能够形成明暗对比,提高“AP”字母的辨识度。后来,爱彼在Stern Frères技术资料中发现了“在AP缩写上增加白线”的记录,表明两个字母之间的分割线有时会处理成白色,以提高“AP”标识的清晰度,这似乎为第二种说法提供了依据。\u003C/p>",[97,98],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":245,":items":246,":itemsOrder":283,":type":99},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8,"carousel":8},{"title":247,"textcarousel":250,"carousel":265},{"id":248,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":249,":type":77},"title-f506c1e2d7","“AP”字样从6点移至12点位置",{"images":251,"text":264,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":95},[252,256,260],{"fileReference":253,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":254,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":255,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--7823ccb5-a598-431b-b95f-f8820c1a6953/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","时针掠过“AP”字母上方。时针扫过“AP”字母上方时,两者间距不足0.1毫米。Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402SA腕表(编号186)表盘特写,腕表于1978年售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_1_v4",{"fileReference":257,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":258,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":259,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--2b7c1317-9860-40f0-9592-5e48a6521dcc/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402SA表盘技术参数表,1980年前后。黄金镶贴立体时标及“AP”字母。岩灰色表盘。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_2_v4",{"fileReference":261,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":262,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":263,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--5d4c0323-d820-4881-8d6b-5205e22153ed/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘,1980年代。此枚表盘装载于Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表(编号231)。腕表于1978年售出,或于1980年代更换过表盘。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1610。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_3_v4","\u003Cp>钟表收藏人士向来清楚,虽然首款Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402ST腕表上“AP”字样镌刻于6点位置,但此后许多表款采用全新表盘设计,“AP”字样移至12点位置。爱彼档案未曾记载这一变化的原因,制表师的回忆为我们提供了一些线索。腕表修复师解释称,一些腕表出厂几年后指针开始摩擦甚至碰到“AP”标志,严重时会导致腕表停走。要知道,指针和标志仅仅距离5-10/100毫米!有工匠曾幽默地表示,让指针通过这个狭窄的缝隙,难度不亚于让骆驼穿过针眼。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>为解决这一问题,爱彼客户服务部的制表师最初选择在指针上手动折出两个微小的倒Z形弯以将指针抬高,使两根指针转动时既不接触标志和玻璃表镜,也不相互碰触。然而,这种工艺难度极大,并非长久之计。1977年2月24日,爱彼决定将标志移至12点位置,为时针留出足够的转动空间。次日,第一批210块新表盘的订单送抵表盘制造商Stern Frères处。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>这一决定可能会让人以为,1977年春天以后生产的Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402腕表都采用了“AP”字样位于12点位置的新表盘设计。而事实并非如此,要知道,爱彼于1972年至1977年3月订购了4,336块Ref. 5402表盘,期间仅售出2,978枚Ref. 5402腕表。这意味着1977年春天时,仍余有1,200多块“AP”字样位于6点位置的表盘库存。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼表盘档案未记录有关这一设计变化的有效信息,既未提及第一枚12点位置镌刻“AP”字样的腕表何时生产,也未介绍最后一枚6点位刻标的Ref. 5402腕表何时交付。我们也无从得知从哪些时计开始调整标志位置,更不知道这两种款式是否曾经并存。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>正如历史学家总是要巧妙地提出假设,让我们先从整体数据一探究竟。1971年至1990年间,爱彼共为Ref. 5402表款订购了6,983块表盘,包括5,189块蓝色、1,548块岩灰色和246块金色(也称棕色)表盘。其中,至少62%的表盘上“AP”字样位于6点位置。更重要的是,爱彼订购的表盘数量比实际售出的腕表数量多911!也就是说,最多有15%的Ref. 5402腕表可能在爱彼自家工坊里更换过表盘。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>现在让我们缩小范围,从配有白金时标的“夜色蓝”(Bleu nuit, Nuage 50)表盘中寻找答案。该表盘是为Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402ST精钢腕表设计,1971年至1990年间,爱彼共订购4,992块,其中至少4,085块的“AP”字样位于6点位置,这意味着至多907块的标志位于12点位置。有趣的是,如果假设最后售出的907枚Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表均配备了12点位刻标的表盘,可推测表盘更替应该发生在1978年春天,即在C系列序列号为1500左右的腕表上更换(详见Ref. 5402表款序列号专题文章)。然而这不太可能,因为12点位置刻标的表盘多被用于早期表款上的更替。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>如果反过来,假设爱彼在使用12点位刻标的表盘之前,已用完4,085块6点位刻标的表盘库存,可推测制表师将从1981年11月起为Ref. 5402腕表配备12点位置镌刻“AP”字样的表盘,即D系列末期的腕表。那么,将只有219枚新腕表在首次销售时配备了该表盘。这一假设更不可能,因为这意味着爱彼自订购第一批6点位刻标的表盘,到首次投入使用足足有三年之久!事实可能介于这两种极端假设之间,即1977年2月至1981年11月间进行替换。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>总之,如果表盘是无缝切换,那么替换时间可能在1978年底;如果是逐渐替换,两款表盘可能在1977年夏至1979年夏同时存在,这种假设可能性更大。根据表盘订单,唯一可以确定的是,在4,304枚Ref. 5402ST腕表中,至多16%的腕表在12点位置镌刻“AP”字样。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp> \u003C/p>",{"images":266,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":145},[267,271,275,279],{"fileReference":268,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":269,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":270,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--04966b66-5452-4363-bcae-f60bf05f4829/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402第一批表盘订单,1977年。据卡片显示,爱彼于1977年2月24日决定为Ref. 5402搭载12点钟位置饰有“AP”字样的表盘,随即于次日下达了首批表盘订单。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_4_v4",{"fileReference":272,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":273,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":274,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a42213c4-9d94-4504-9765-ce003bd6453d/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","“AP”字母平面设计图,1984年。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_5_v4",{"fileReference":276,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":277,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":278,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--4aefc9d9-0336-4412-9904-0d6090243bb6/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表,编号231,1978年。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号174138。或于1980年代更换过表盘。表壳编号B22139,直径39毫米,18K黄金。1978年在美国售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1610。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_6_v2",{"fileReference":280,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":281,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":282,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--806c8d85-e869-46f6-84bf-6596e82969c3/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402BA表盘上的12点钟位置饰有“AP”字样,1980年前后。1970年代末,“AP”标识逐渐从原来的6点钟位置移至12点位。Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表(编号231)表盘细节。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1610。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_7_v21",[97,98,147],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":285,":items":286,":itemsOrder":305,":type":99},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":287,"textcarousel":290},{"id":288,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":289,":type":77},"title-ab8d0195fe","转印工艺",{"images":291,"text":304,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":95},[292,296,300],{"fileReference":293,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":294,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":295,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--0f29d7a6-8ed3-4b32-b64f-252292d85f9e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402表盘特写,1972年。在首款Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的表盘上,“AUDEMARS PIGUET”品牌标识位于以三个白金时标末端为顶点的三角形内。要将白色字母转印于立体表面,需进行若干准备步骤。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/10_1_v3",{"fileReference":297,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":298,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":299,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d7a145b2-564f-4ec1-8f9b-28d871b71258/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402表盘特写,1972年。轨道式分钟刻度线转印于白金时标顶端围成的圆环内侧。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/10_2_v3",{"fileReference":301,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":302,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":303,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d415bf1f-b94f-465d-adbe-dcdc986d55b9/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402表盘特写,1972年。日期视窗右侧印有三段长度减半的分钟刻度线。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/10_3_v2","\u003Cp>Stern Frères的技术资料显示,Ref. 5402表盘采用了多个转印元素。“Cliché(转印)”一词源于法语,指采用酸蚀雕刻的金属模板,转印品牌徽标、轨道式分钟刻度、原产地标识等印记。要在层次丰富的Tapisserie格纹表盘上印制细小的字母并非易事,因为未干的油墨会沿金字塔立体方格侧面流入微小菱格纹中。为填平凹纹,形成平整印面,表盘工匠先以两层透明油墨打底,再以白色油墨压印两次。这种工艺一直沿用至今。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>正如每块表盘的颜色不尽相同,转印元素的位置及字体和线条粗细亦有细微差别。品牌名称Audemars Piguet通常位于以10点、12点和2点时标末端为顶点的三角形内,“AUTOMATIC”(自动)字样则略低于三角形底边(见图示)。在以“AP”缩写代替12点双条时标的表款中,“AUTOMATIC”(自动)字样被移至表盘6点位置。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>第二个转印元素不太引人注目:每两个时标之间,印有四段辐射状排列的细小分钟刻度线,巧妙衬托出表盘的圆润流畅。细心的鉴赏行家或许注意到,仅首枚Ref. 5402表款日期视窗右侧有三段长度减半的分钟刻度线。之后,即使是Stern Frères在1980年代翻新的表盘也无这一设计。第三个转印元素更加低调——6点钟时标下方印有细小的原产地标识,彰显腕表纯正的瑞士血统。\u003C/p>",[97,98],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":307,":items":308,":itemsOrder":329,":type":99},{"twoimages":8,"title":8,"textimage":8},{"title":309,"textimage":312,"twoimages":318},{"id":310,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":311,":type":77},"title-ef450bcd24","从“SWISS”(瑞士)到“SWISS MADE”(瑞士制造)",{"text":313,"image":314,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":112},"\u003Cp>“Swiss Made”(瑞士制造)标识源自17世纪瑞士钟表行业公会印记,代表着时计的品质保证。该标识自1971年起受法律保护,与腕表及机芯上镌刻的编号、(贵金属、表盘制造商、表壳制造商、表带制造商等)多重印记、宝石数量和表盘上的品牌徽标相辅相成,共同彰显出腕表的非凡品质。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼腕表的原产地标识几经变化,最终形成定例。19世纪,品牌徽标下方偶尔会加印“Le Brassus”(布拉苏丝)字样。1930年代至1960年代末,这一标记通常由“Genève”(日内瓦)取代,提醒人们品牌在日内瓦拥有一座专研复杂功能的制表工坊。而自1920年代起,6点钟时标下方开始出现细小的“SWISS”(瑞士)标识,至1970年代渐成惯例,因此首批Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表均带有这一标记。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>天长日久,表盘可能会氧化生锈,或产生划痕。对此,修复师会建议对表盘进行翻新,包括拆卸嵌饰物,清除印纹、清漆和涂层,去除锈迹;然后,采用电镀、转印等工序重新装饰表盘,并安装经打磨翻新的时标。整个过程中,原有的机刻雕花Tapisserie格纹装饰保持不变。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>虽然翻新所用工艺和翻新后的外观效果均与原作一致,但这一操作有时也会留下时代的痕迹。例如,约自1985年起,之前印于6点钟时标下方的“Swiss”(瑞士)字样,被“Swiss Made”(瑞士制造)替代。这一细微变化在当时可能并未引起重视,但如今已和“AP”缩写的位置一样,成为钟表藏家评估腕表的重要依据。表盘如印有“Swiss Made”(瑞士制造)字样,即表明这枚腕表是在1980年代中期以后制造或翻新的。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼品牌历史传承团队遍阅历史档案,并向爱彼前员工求证,终于找出了这一变化的原因——似乎仅仅只是出于美观考虑。“Swiss”(瑞士)和“Made”(制造)两个单词分别位于6点钟时标两侧,使表盘更显对称。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>值得注意的是,有一部分Ref. 5402腕表在首次上市之时或已采用“Swiss Made”(瑞士制造)标识,因为最后一批133枚于1985年至2002年间在售。\u003Cbr />\r\n\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":315,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":316,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":317,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9f804594-5526-42c8-9a73-94b5721f8a67/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST腕表,编号C1709,1979年。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号197186。表带编号344,T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。腕表问世之时“AP”字样即已位于表盘12点钟位置,“SWISS MADE”(瑞士制造)标识则是1980年代翻新后才出现于表盘上。表壳编号B3709,直径39毫米,精钢。1979年2月在瑞士售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1191。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/11_1",{"images":319,":type":328},[320,324],{"fileReference":321,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":322,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":323,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":94,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1d4a81dc-507b-4f4e-b277-706ee4597a22/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表Ref. 5402表盘特写,1972年。“SWISS”(瑞士)字样转印于6点钟时标下方,代表腕表的原产国。这一字样后于1980年代中期被“SWISS MADE”(瑞士制造)所取代。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 365。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/11_2_v2",{"fileReference":325,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":326,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":327,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":94,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d15ec386-cc38-4564-8fbe-36e9b805a31e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402ST腕表(编号C1709)表盘特写,1979年。此腕表于1979年面世时,表盘上印有“SWISS”(瑞士)字样。1980年代中期表盘翻新时,这一字样被“SWISS MADE”(瑞士制造)取代。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1191。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/11_3_v2","apchronicles/components/twoimages",[97,114,330],"twoimages",{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":332,":items":333,":itemsOrder":343,":type":99},{"title":8,"textimage":8},{"title":334,"textimage":337},{"id":335,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":336,":type":77},"title-a589401a42","双重标记",{"text":338,"image":339,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":112},"\u003Cp>双重标记时计将两个卓越品牌的印记融于一件作品中,是收藏界趋之若鹜的珍品。具有双重标记的Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402腕表数量极其稀少,因而格外珍罕。为数不多的宝格丽(Bulgari)、蒂芙尼(Tiffany)、尚美巴黎(Chaumet)联名款爱彼时计亦备受钟表藏家青睐。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>要更好地了解双重标记,就要回溯1875年爱彼创立之初的历史。当时,爱彼只有寥寥数名制表工匠,在与世隔绝的汝山谷中辛勤制表,鲜有机会接触到最终客户。销售工作主要依赖在各大都市拥有深厚根基的分销商、钟表商或珠宝商,蒂芙尼(Tiffany)、卡地亚(Cartier)、古宝琳(Gübelin)、宝格丽(Bulgari)等均在其列。这些品牌或负责爱彼时计的销售,或参与腕表的创作,常常会在爱彼时计上嵌入自己的印记。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>经过多年发展,钟表收藏界对爱彼时计的追捧与日俱增,日益显赫的声誉造就爱彼独家标记时计逐渐增多。20世纪中叶前,许多爱彼时计上往往带有零售商的印记。自1950年代起,爱彼开始着力打造自身品牌形象,双重标记作品渐渐减少,到1970年代更为罕见,仅有少数特例。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>更重要的是,行业做法亦有所改变。1970年代以前,爱彼先订购带有其他品牌标记的表盘,后在布拉苏丝(Le Brassus)的制表工坊进行组装。而在1972年,零售商或其他钟表品牌有时会在收到爱彼时计成品后,再加入自己的品牌印记。因此,爱彼档案中没有双重标记款Ref. 5402腕表的相关记录。我们或许可以从销售目的地中窥见端倪。如果一枚爱彼时计的目的城市为蒂芙尼(Tiffany)总部所在地纽约(而不是东京或巴黎),那么这块蒂芙尼(Tiffany)联名表盘更有可能是正品。但这一信息不足以构成确凿证据,只有联名品牌的档案(如有)能证明时计在上市销售时是否为双重标记款。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":340,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":341,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":342,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--fda79637-817c-436f-aaf5-b27b1002390c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列广告,1977年。Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 4100于美国蒂芙尼(Tiffany)门店发售。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/12",[97,114],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":345,":items":346,":itemsOrder":410,":type":99},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8,"carousel":8},{"title":347,"textcarousel":350,"carousel":365},{"id":348,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":349,":type":77},"title-6e745d1b3a","Ref. 5402腕表表盘的丰富款型",{"images":351,"text":364,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":95},[352,356,360],{"fileReference":353,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":354,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":355,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--bdb4dd2e-5afd-4576-b6c9-7d856e4fac0a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402SA腕表表盘,1978年。图中的岩灰色表盘搭载于Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402SA腕表(编号192)中,饰有专为这一双色表款设计的黄金立体时标。此枚腕表于1978年5月在墨西哥售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_2",{"fileReference":357,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":358,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":359,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--04fe75ee-8eb2-427d-bf28-3eeb1fffb208/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表表盘,1978年。该款黄金表盘限量制作25枚,6点钟位置饰有“AP”字样。图为Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表(编号192)的表盘,此枚腕表于1978年5月在墨西哥售出。 爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1073。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_1",{"fileReference":361,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":362,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":363,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9f8bfb22-26c4-4329-9d17-7e22cd792d7d/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BC腕表表盘,1978年。Ref. 5402白金款的表盘多点缀方形或圆形切割钻石。图为Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BC腕表(编号110)的表盘。此枚腕表于1980年在德国售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1835。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_7","\u003Cp>1977年,Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 5402腕表首次推出黄金款、白金款和精钢/黄金双色表款。机刻雕花表盘紧跟潮流,增加多样化色彩选择,更换AP缩写和时标材质,甚至还推出钻石时标。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>\u003Cb>岩灰色表盘\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1977年2月至1990年9月,爱彼共订购1,548块岩灰色表盘,用于Ref. 5402SA精钢/黄金双色表款,其中至少220块6点位置有AP字样,至少980块12点位刻标。表盘颜色与精钢表壳和表带相呼应,而黄金时标则与同材质表圈和表带固定链节一致。值得注意的是,尽管Tapisserie格纹是该系列腕表的标志性元素之一,但1970年代后期,爱彼推出无格纹装饰表盘,并提供此处所示的丰富颜色选择。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>\u003Cb>棕色(镀金)表盘\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Ref. 5402BA黄金腕表共生产740枚,多数为蓝色表盘,点缀黄金时标;亦有146枚搭配镀金表盘,其中25枚6点位置装饰AP字样,76枚标志位于12点位置,45枚档案未记录字样位置信息。需要说明的是,6点位刻标的镀金表盘极为罕见,2000年以来,爱彼客户服务部未收到过该款型返修。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>\u003Cb>镶钻表盘\u003C/b>\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>爱彼档案中存有23份钻石时标表盘订单。表盘为蓝色、镀金或岩灰色,搭配方形或圆形镶钻时标,用于Ref. 5402腕表或其衍生版本Ref. 4187镶钻款。这些订单再次展现爱彼专注少量生产甚至打造孤品时计的传统。\u003C/p>",{"images":366,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":145},[367,371,375,379,382,386,390,394,398,402,406],{"fileReference":368,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":369,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":370,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f55ad03b-125a-47bc-89c8-c2e7813b5a93/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表,编号192,1978年。日期显示,Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号174038。表带编号344,T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表壳编号B19030,直径39毫米,编号192,18K黄金。1978年5月在墨西哥售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1073。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_3",{"fileReference":372,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":373,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":374,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--62a1f42a-d980-4961-b7b4-1de688fa7d44/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402表款首批镶钻镀金表盘订单,1977年。当时,贵金属材质被引入Ref. 5402表款,表盘设计亦随之更加多样化,多见于Ref. 5402BC表款和Ref. 4187镶钻款中。图中编号2907的订购项目为25枚镀金表盘(即订单中的“棕色表盘”),6点位置装饰“AP”字样。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_4",{"fileReference":376,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":377,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":378,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--81dbf6cf-6f20-4baf-b2c0-26fcc71e35a4/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402SA腕表,编号286,1978年。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号175031。表壳编号B20804,直径39毫米,精钢/18K黄金双色。1978年在中国香港售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_5",{"fileReference":380,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":258,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":381,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--03b50d18-5372-460b-8a98-8dd265e5aaa3/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_6",{"fileReference":383,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":384,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":385,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--8b72792c-81c9-4231-b31f-dc182ce4de5f/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BC腕表,编号110,1980年。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号211839。表壳编号B43447,直径39毫米,18K白金。1980年在德国售出。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1835。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_8",{"fileReference":387,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":388,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":389,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--c3b6cf92-770c-4126-8ff3-68b75a2ab0bc/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402BA腕表,编号113,1978年。日期显示。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号174319。镶钻T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表带编号344。表壳编号B18951,表款编号113,直径39毫米,18K黄金。1978年6月售予德国UHG。Pygmalion藏品。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_9",{"fileReference":391,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":392,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":393,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--50618641-b977-499a-ae55-6710ff22d9ab/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402腕表(编号111)表盘技术参数表,1980年前后。11个开孔专为镶嵌钻石时标而设。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_10_v2",{"fileReference":395,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":396,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":397,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--da9bf0cd-05e3-48ca-94ae-2464ac600fba/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402腕表(编号78)表盘技术参数表,1980年前后。11个开孔专为镶嵌钻石时标而设。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_11_v2",{"fileReference":399,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":400,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":401,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--3df35d01-03e4-44f5-9169-ddb879d68757/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402腕表(编号87)表盘技术参数表,1980年前后。11个开孔专为镶嵌钻石时标而设。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_12_v2",{"fileReference":403,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":404,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":405,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d2d21827-e27d-4ed8-9487-9abd7b0f3a07/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 5402腕表(编号118)表盘技术参数表,1980年前后。11个开孔专为镶嵌钻石时标而设。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_13",{"fileReference":407,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":408,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":409,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a76e7d1b-99d9-4a87-958f-50a614e4aeb6/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 4187BA腕表,编号399,1979年。日期显示。Calibre 2121机芯,机芯编号197643。镶钻T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表带编号344。表壳编号B34725,表款编号399(与Ref. 5402BA编号连续),直径39毫米,18K黄金。1977年7月售予瑞士Darcal。无记载显示Ref. 5402BA如何衍生出Ref. 4187BC,或在爱彼工坊完成改造。Pygmalion藏品。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/13_14",[97,98,147],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":412,":items":413,":itemsOrder":438,":type":99},{"title":8,"carousel":8,"textimage":8},{"title":414,"textimage":417,"carousel":423},{"id":415,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":416,":type":77},"title-2b919cd097","涂氚荧光时标和指针",{"text":418,"image":419,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":112},"\u003Cp>Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表时标和指针素来采用实金材质,弧线柔美灵动。Ref. 5402腕表设计师杰罗•尊达(Gérald Genta)曾介绍说:“环形时标和指针内部填充荧光材料,极为精致。”爱彼工匠则常用“浴缸”(baignoire)一词来形容,一来显然因其形状,二来则是因为经镂空工艺挖空的内部填充了另一种材料——氚。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>整个20世纪,荧光表盘都广为流行。2018年6月,Chams Iaz曾在《瑞士时报》(Le Temp)撰文介绍,1898年居里夫人发现镭元素,此后人们一度认为这种物质对健康有益而广泛使用,甚至添加到织物中。“Iradia品牌推出含放射性物质的保暖内衣,宣称可抵御滑雪的严寒!”抗抑郁药物也以镭成分为卖点,因为“服用放射性物质可增添生命活力”。在瑞士制表业,数以千计的女性担任“镭射发光师”——采用手工方式将镭涂在大多数运动腕表的表盘、时标和指针上。在美国,“镭射女孩”从事着同样的工作。2018年上映的莉迪亚•迪恩•皮尔彻(Lydia Dean Pilcher)执导的同名电影讲述的就是她们的故事。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1930至1940年代,一些爱彼计时码表也使用过镭元素。不过,意识到这种材料的危险性后,品牌立即于1957年停用该物质,比瑞士政府出台相关规定提前了六年。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>由于荧光表盘备受推崇,制表业开始寻找替代之选,随后选用放射性较低的氚。一般而言,涂氚腕表表盘需标注“T”字样,但放射性活度低于7.5毫居里的腕表无需标注,Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表就在此列。值得一提的是,1999年2月起,氚逐渐被非放射性磷光材料Super-LumiNova©取代,与此前使用的“自发光”材料不同,它必须先吸收光能而后才能发光。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>早期Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的指针与后期版本略有不同。专业人士借助放大镜甚至显微镜可发现,早期表款的指针金属面更宽、更扁平,只有一条细窄的发光条。制表师称其为“扁平指针”,仅可见于Ref. 5402腕表。后期表款的玻璃表镜与表盘之间空间加大,从Ref. 8638和Ref. 4100表款开始,指针一改“扁平”式样,金属部分抬高,厚度减小,可放置更多发光物质。\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":420,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":421,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":422,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--c4c7ff49-256e-4893-ab5a-977459d44d0b/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402SA腕表(编号286)指针和时标特写,1978年。时标和指针采用黄金材质,与黄金表圈形成巧妙呼应,内有微量氚气实现荧光效果,方便夜间读时。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/14_1",{"images":424,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":145},[425,429,433,437],{"fileReference":426,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":427,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":428,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9d62604a-d202-4481-aa8f-7aac73e06f4c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402SA腕表(编号286)“Baignoire”椭圆造型指针特写,1978年。指针由荧光材质及外圈纤细的金边构成,并略经压缩以减少厚度。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/14_2_v2",{"fileReference":430,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":431,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":432,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f4e71b2f-96b5-45e2-9602-b308fd4a4827/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 5402SA腕表(编号286)时标特写,1978年。时标以细如发丝的微小镶爪固定于表盘上,其内有微量氚气,在黑暗中亦清晰易读。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1446。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/14_30",{"fileReference":434,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":435,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":436,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ddeb08f1-adba-434a-9cb9-776006877e4c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 16202ST的指针和时标,2022年。此表款问世于Royal Oak皇家橡树系列诞生50周年之际,指针涂覆惰性荧光材质。指针及时标的金属部分相较Ref. 5402更纤细。图片摄于腕表发布之时。爱彼档案图片。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/14_4",{"fileReference":60,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":34,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":34,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},[97,114,147],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":440,":items":441,":itemsOrder":451,":type":99},{"title":8,"textimage":8},{"title":442,"textimage":445},{"id":443,"linkDisabled":36,"type":75,"text":444,":type":77},"title-fd51f5d4f3","结语",{"text":446,"image":447,"imageControlIconColor":94,":type":112},"\u003Cp>第一枚Royal Oak皇家橡树表款的表盘融合精湛技艺与至臻设计,远观近看皆美不胜收。从远处可欣赏波纹般迷人的光影变幻效果,还能清晰读时。拿在手中把玩,可见数百个顶部被截断的小金字塔立体方格(也有人称其为巧克力方格)排列成棋盘格图案,线条纵横交错。置于显微镜下,数万个精美菱纹格尽收眼底,偶有格子相互重叠,呈现出繁复流畅的弧线之美。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>过去50年,Tapisserie格纹图案几经演绎,形成大小不一、盘旋式、放射状等不同版本,成为Royal Oak皇家橡树系列的经典元素。然而,我们也不应忘记这样一个事实:早在1970年代末,Royal Oak皇家橡树系列就已推出无机刻格纹图案的传统表盘,1984年推出的第一款Royal Oak皇家橡树万年历腕表Ref. 5554正是采用这一设计。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp> \u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>编委会:爱彼历史传承团队,布拉苏斯\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>首刊于:2022年1月24日\u003C/p>",{"fileReference":448,"mobileFileReference":60,"caption":449,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":450,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9b2775a6-bef5-40be-a24a-e918844c88cc/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列万年历腕表Ref. 5554ST,1984年前后。万年历:星期、日期、月份和月相显示。Calibre 2120/2800超薄机芯(3.95毫米)。表带编号344。银色表盘。表壳编号D148,直径39毫米,表款编号37(最初生产的50枚Ref. 5554ST腕表采用的是此前为Ref. 5402ST表款D序列腕表制作的表壳)。图为发布时展示的无机芯原型表款。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 455。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/15",[97,114],[453,454,455,456,457,458,459,460,461,462,463,464,465,466,467],"chapter","chapter_1292816112","chapter_2041098008","chapter_55075233","chapter_1791967777","chapter_2106990304","chapter_505900764","chapter_398949172","chapter_1561382537","chapter_2133111894","chapter_103255783","chapter_1701349650","chapter_321569940","chapter_614185917","chapter_2084028765","apchronicles/components/container",{"relatedContent":470,":type":599},[471,476,482,488,493,499,505,510,515,520,526,533,539,546,551,556,562,567,572,577,582,588,593],{"title":472,"path":473,"image":474,"duration":51,"templateType":31},"Calibre 2120/2121机芯","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/articles/calibres-2120-2121",{"fileReference":475,"mobileFileReference":475,"caption":34,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":34,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--423e4faa-803f-4c92-8f0f-9161fd9d56f4/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true",{"title":477,"path":478,"image":479,"duration":481,"templateType":31},"Royal Oak皇家橡树系列编号系统","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/articles/royal-oak-numbering",{"fileReference":480,"mobileFileReference":480,"caption":34,"altText":34,"assetPagePath":34,"disableSharing":36,"imageControlIconColor":34,"title":34,":type":37},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--2cf465f1-576d-4e28-8f47-0143b4471034/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","20",{"title":483,"path":484,"image":485,"duration":487,"templateType":31},"首款Royal 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