\r\n\u003C/p>",[203,207,211,215],{"fileReference":204,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":205,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":206,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e6ca0a54-b506-4c02-bdd5-d386cd69c310/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","第二代Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表Ref. 8638ST设计初稿,1973年前后。除表壳直径和表圈比例略有调整外,Ref. 8638ST与第一代Ref. 5402ST表款如出一辙。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_1_croquis",{"fileReference":208,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":209,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":210,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1b2cd424-6d3f-4139-88f7-2f9a081153b8/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 8638表壳设计图,1974年。Ref. 8638表款面世两年前,意大利表壳制造商Fontana绘制的第一份表壳技术图纸。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_2_plan_v4",{"fileReference":212,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":213,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":214,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--bc92dcde-6d51-4a01-941c-5978b7305d8c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","424号表带存档图片,1976年前后。专为Ref. 8638表款设计,延续了先前344号表带的美学风格,但宽度略有减窄。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_3_bracelet_v2",{"fileReference":216,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":217,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":218,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e8da3733-e296-44f4-a6d1-f85984892730/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列首款女装腕表Ref. 8638表壳部件,其外部构造与此前Ref. 5402表款大为不同。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1871。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_4_eclate",{"imageControlIconColor":80,"images":220,":type":241},[221,225,229,233,237],{"fileReference":222,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":223,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":224,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--08767ac6-3de5-47b8-9c16-fdca12760574/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 8638ST腕表(1976年),编号370,1977年售出。Calibre 2062机芯,机芯编号224714(原机芯编号176679)。表带编号424,T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表壳直径29毫米,精钢。1977年售予意大利Italomega。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1871。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_5_ro",{"fileReference":226,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":227,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":228,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e6530c3e-1a36-4809-b728-9cd065ac7607/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 2062机芯,1976–1980年,表底视图。机芯编号192611,直径15毫米(6¾法分)。小时,分钟显示。自动上链,24颗宝石。爱彼博物馆典藏。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_6_calibre",{"fileReference":230,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":231,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":232,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--035ac6c2-e850-48bc-b192-775f942d2267/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 8638表壳底盖,1976年,正反面。底盖中间凸起,以容纳厚度为4.25毫米的Calibre 2062机芯,同时兼顾外形的纤薄美观。爱彼博物馆典藏编号Inv. 1871。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_7_fond_v2",{"fileReference":234,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":235,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":236,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ba286b99-16b2-4e6a-a3ac-c9006f317f21/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Ref. 8638表盘款式,1976–1977年。Royal Oak皇家橡树系列首款女装腕表采用了与此前Ref. 5402类似的表盘设计:“夜色蓝”配色,T21 Tapisserie机刻雕花格纹装饰图案,AP字样首次移至12点位。图为表盘制造商Stern Frères的技术参数:上图为精钢款表盘,下图为精钢/黄金双色款岩灰色表盘。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_8_cadrans",{"fileReference":238,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":239,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":240,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--33f5661f-c8b7-415f-ac1b-d6127f10e591/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 8638ST表壳技术参数,1976年。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/8_9_fiche","apchronicles/components/carousel",[88,141,243],"carousel",{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":245,"gridClassNames":8,":items":246,":itemsOrder":269,":type":90},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":247,"textcarousel":250},{"id":248,"linkDisabled":32,"type":75,"text":249,":type":77},"title-a157e1ab5c","巴黎斐登(Fred)珠宝行首秀",{"text":251,"imageControlIconColor":80,"images":252,":type":139},"\u003Cp>一年一度的巴塞尔钟表展是钟表界不容错过的盛事。这场为期十天的展会汇聚了瑞士等欧洲各国钟表品牌,吸引世界各地的业内人士齐聚巴塞尔,共同探索、订购时计新品。自1940年代起,爱彼就以巴塞尔钟表展为展示新品的舞台。然而,对于Royal Oak皇家橡树II这款非凡之作,爱彼一改常规,在当年的钟表展开幕之前,提前三周在巴黎皇家大道斐登(Fred)珠宝行的一次展览中,展示了编号00到09的首批十枚Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 8638ST腕表。1976年4月26日至5月3日,巴塞尔钟表展期间,该表款在爱彼展位上大放异彩。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Royal Oak皇家橡树Ref. 8638表款一经上市便备受追捧,几乎供不应求。1976年售出428枚,次年765枚,1978年接近1,000枚,1979年突破千枚大关。这款女装腕表广受欢迎,也带动了人们对爱彼其他女装表款的关注。1976年,爱彼女装腕表销量增长55%,超过总产量的四分之一,一年后达到总产量的三分之一。\u003C/p>",[253,257,261,265],{"fileReference":254,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":255,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":256,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--47c49ea2-f74f-495a-bf20-33c16f89a95c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","第一代和第二代Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表广告,1976年。当年4月13日刊登于《费加罗报》(Le Figaro),宣布Royal Oak皇家橡树系列首款女装腕表Ref. 8638于巴黎斐登(Fred)珠宝行发行上市。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_1_pub_fred",{"fileReference":258,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":259,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":260,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--7780d0fb-66d2-4201-8d85-52a4781fd038/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","第一代和第二代Royal Oak皇家橡树系列腕表广告,1976年。刊登于德国《明镜周刊》(Der Spiegel)1976年10月刊,展示了当年Royal Oak皇家橡树系列仅有的两个表款:Ref. 5402(1972年)和Ref. 8638(1976年),均为精钢款。©爱彼档案图片","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_2_pub_ro",{"fileReference":262,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":263,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":264,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e9d91789-5687-4a80-b420-97ec8d0bc550/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","《名表世界》(Europa Star)“巴塞尔钟表展速递”专栏,1976年。爱彼在当年巴塞尔钟表展上展出了两款创意新颖的女装腕表,Ref. 8638正是其中之一。©《名表世界》(Europa Star),1976年4–5月,150–6期,第34页。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_3_pub_foire_debale",{"fileReference":266,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":267,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":268,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--16a75fb6-f59b-4371-b90e-0b8b67a9de93/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 8638ST腕表(1976年),编号743,1978年售出。Calibre 2062机芯,表带编号424,T21 Tapisserie格纹表盘。表壳编号B10000,直径29毫米,精钢。1990年收入爱彼博物馆,典藏编号Inv. 654。","/content/ap/chronicles/ww/zh-hans/assets/9_4_ro",[88,141],{"columnCount":5,"columnClassNames":271,"gridClassNames":8,":items":272,":itemsOrder":299,":type":90},{"textcarousel":7,"title":7},{"title":273,"textcarousel":276},{"id":274,"linkDisabled":32,"type":75,"text":275,":type":77},"title-d6c07b4623","从精钢到贵金属",{"text":277,"imageControlIconColor":80,"images":278,":type":139},"\u003Cp>首款Royal Oak皇家橡树男装腕表与女装腕表均为全精钢款。颠覆成规的全新理念给人留下深刻印象,令Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表声名鹊起,也开启了高级钟表的崭新篇章。然而,精钢表款并不能满足市场对贵金属表款的热切需求。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp> \u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>1977年,Royal Oak皇家橡树系列首次推出贵金属表款。有人担心,放弃该表款引以为豪的精钢材质可能削弱Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表的魅力,但事实证明并非如此。Ref. 8638BA黄金款自1977年面世以来反响颇佳,当年便售出112枚,之后数年年均销量维持在250枚左右。Ref. 8638SA双色款将黄金和精钢两种材质巧妙结合,更显精致超伦。该表款备受市场青睐,问世当年即售出283枚,随后两年销量翻番。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp> \u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>始自1972年的Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表极具革新性,是爱彼有史以来首个拥有专属名称的系列表款。1976年Ref. 8638ST表款的诞生,彰显出Royal Oak皇家橡树腕表不断超越的强大生命力。1977年,这款腕表迎来全新材质和尺寸的多样化演绎,至此\u003Ca name=\"_Hlk98689584\" id=\"_Hlk98689584\">\u003C/a>这一制表业的颠覆之作已发展为初具规模的时计系列。\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp> \u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>编委会:爱彼历史传承团队,布拉苏斯\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>首刊于:2022年1月24日\u003C/p>",[279,283,287,291,295],{"fileReference":280,"mobileFileReference":83,"caption":281,"altText":31,"assetPagePath":282,"disableSharing":32,"imageControlIconColor":31,"title":31,":type":33},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--35a47d4b-b7d6-4cea-96b6-2f2cdbaed7d2/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak皇家橡树系列Ref. 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