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14544, Royal OakJoaillerie

Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544

35mm | Hours, minutes | Calibre 2131 | Bracelet 477 | Water-resistant to 50m | Launch date: 1987

Just it did in 1978 with Model 4153 gemset on the basis of Model 4100, Audemars Piguet expanded the Royal Oak 35 mm collection by transforming certain examples of Model 14486 into jewellery timepieces. While the addition of gemsetting changed the watch reference to 14544, the small consecutive case numbers remained part of the 14486 series.

Model 14544 was available in three materials: yellow gold (1987), white gold (1989) and two-tone yellow gold and steel (1991). Marketed from 1987 to 1992 in a run of 102 units, it appeared for the first and only time in the 1990 catalogue, as a yellow gold variant.

Several versions of the gemsetting are documented. In most cases, the dial (with or without a date window, in white or yellow gold) is entirely covered with brilliant-cut diamonds. The 10 or 11 hour-markers are in ruby, emerald or sapphire. A more understated variant features a smooth dial, punctuated by 10 or 11 hour-markers set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The bezel features 32 brilliant-cut diamonds.

The "bathtub”-shaped hands of Model 14486 are replaced by yellow gold or blackened white gold baton-type hands, as is often the case with gemset versions.

Continuing the tradition of établissage (proto-industrial work organisation) instated when the company was founded in 1875, Audemars Piguet worked with Stern of Geneva for the dials, Gay Frères of Geneva for Bracelet 477 and Lascor near Milan for the cases.

Like Model 14486, the Royal Oak 14544 is equipped with Calibre 2131 (in the version without centre seconds) which later evolved towards Calibre 2151 from 1988-1989.

Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544BA

The first version of Model 14544 was marketed in 1987 in a yellow gold case. 40 examples were sold in five years.

The Audemars Piguet archives show different variations on yellow gold dials : with or without a date window, entirely paved or demurely adorned with diamond hour-markers. One notes the black PVD-treated brass inner bezel ring highlighting the contrast between the gemsetting on the bezel and the gold of the dial.

The hours and minutes are indicated by yellow gold baton-type hands.

Sales from 1987 to 1992: a total of 40 units, of which 6 (1987), 3 (1988), 25 (1989), 4 (1990), 1 (1991) and 1 (1992).

Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544BC

The white gold version of Model 14544 was sold from 1989 to 1992 in a run of 42.

The dial is now in white gold to match the colour of the case and bracelet. All the variants documented in the archives feature a dial entirely paved with diamonds, with the hour-markers replaced by coloured stones (ruby, emerald or sapphire). It is not impossible that some examples may have been equipped with smooth dials like the yellow gold variant.

Sales from 1989 to 1992: a total of 42 units, of which 13 (1989), 17 (1990), 11 (1991) and 1 (1992).

Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544SA

The 20 examples of the two-tone SA version (yellow gold and steel) were all sold in 1991.

The absence of archives prevents us from knowing the details of the dials used in this variant. It is however very likely that the dials of the BA and BC versions were used.

Sales: 20 units in 1991.

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