25820, ROYAL OAK

The story of the 25820 model begins with its yellow gold version – the only one offered at launch in 1996, and remarkably, still featured in the catalogueue 17 years later.

Its first iteration showcased a golden dial, creating a striking monochrome aesthetic. The slender yellow hour markers and hands, free of any luminescent material, enhanced the sense of visual purity. Presented in 2002, the second iteration embraced contrast, pairing a silver-toned dial with the signature Grande Tapisserie motif for added texture.

Sales breakdown (1996–2008):

Total: 108 pieces

1996: 1 | 1997: 5 | 1998: 15 | 1999: 6 | 2000: 3 | 2001: 11 | 2002: 3 | 2003: 14 | 2004: 7 | 2005: 12 | 2006: 13 | 2007: 13 | 2008: 5

The steel variant of the 25820 model appeared in the 1996 catalogueue, but wasn’t until the following year that it officially went on sale, with just six units. Since then, sales have gradually increased, fluctuating between 20 and 80 watches annually, peaking at 92 units in 2007 before declining and disappearing entirely in 2012.

With over 600 pieces sold in 14 years, the steel varient is the most widely produced version of this reference, having been offered in six different dial configurations.

The earliest dial was also the only one without the Tapisserie motif, featuring a grey tone that harmonised with the steel case. Introduced in 2000, the second dial featured a Petite Tapisserie motif. While the catalogueue describes its colour as "sapphire blue“, collectors have affectionately dubbed it "Yves Klein blue“, due to its resemblance to the iconic International Klein Blue (IKB) developed by French artist Yves Klein (1928-1962).

Tapisserie dials became more prevalent in the 2000s, offered in various shades of blue and white. Also of note is the introduction of luminescent hour markers and hands in the 21st century.

Sales breakdown (1997–2011):

Total: 629 pieces

1997: 6 | 1998: 23 | 1999: 53 | 2000: 52 | 2001: 43 | 2002: 32 | 2003: 58 | 2004: 81 | 2005: 84 | 2006: 49 | 2007: 92 | 2008: 29 | 2009: 23 | 2010: 3 | 2011: 1

In 1996, Audemars Piguet launched production of three limited editions of 15 two-tone pieces featuring tantalum cases and centre links, paired with studs and bezels in either yellow gold, pink gold, or platinum.

Tantalum, a dark-toned, hypoallergenic, and exceptionally rare metal, was introduced into watchmaking by Audemars Piguet in the 1980s at the request of several monarchs who desired a black watch. Though notoriously difficult to work with, its unique properties and aesthetic appeal made it a compelling choice.

The TA variant is distinguished by its gold-plated dial and blackened yellow gold hands and hour markers, creating a bold contrast of tones and textures.

Sales breakdown (1996–1999):

Total: 15 pieces

1996: 10 | 1997: 3 | 1999: 2

Only 13 examples of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25820 were produced combining pink gold and tantalum. The colour of the dial and hour markers echoes that of the bezel and studs, creating a harmonious and distinctive aesthetic.

Sales breakdown (1997–1999):

Total: 13 pieces

1997: 8 | 1999: 5

Planned as an limited edition of 15 pieces, the variant combining tantalum and platinum was ultimately released in just 9 examples, one of which is now preserved in the Audemars Piguet Heritage Collection.

This rare model features an opaline grey dial paired with blackened white gold hands and hour markers, offering a refined and understated contrast.

Sales breakdown (1997):
Total: 9 pieces
1997: 9

The combination of steel and platinum offers a particularly refined aesthetic. Though both metals are grey in colour, they reflect light differently, creating subtle and unsuspected contrasts. To emphasize this interplay, watchmakers often apply contrasting finishes. Here, the bezel and platinum studs are mirror-polished, while the links and middle case are satin-brushed.

Reference 25820SP remained in the catalogueue for over a decade. It was offered in several two-tone dial variations – on black or silver backgrounds – and even a pink version.

One of the rarest configurations is a 25-piece edition featuring a Tuscany blue dial with white gold hands and hour markers.

Additionally, some examples of this model are fitted with a special black oscillating weight, inspired by the design of the Royal Oak Jubilee 14802.

Sales breakdown (1997–2010):

Total: 382 pieces

1997: 25 | 1999: 49 | 2000: 61 | 2001: 56 | 2002: 33 | 2003: 26 | 2004: 23 | 2005: 23 | 2006: 11 | 2007: 49 | 2008: 22 | 2009: 3 | 2010: 1

Like all platinum watches with a metal bracelet, this variant of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25820 is distinguished by its substantial weight and rarity. Just over 70 units were manufactured and sold between 1998 and 2006.

The Audemars Piguet archives record four dial variations for this reference, though the number of pieces per dial is not specified. It’s even possible that some of these dials were never actually fitted to this model:

•Tuscany Blue Dial, Petite Tapisserie

•Tuscany Blue Dial, Engraved

•“Old Pink” Dial, Grande Tapisserie

•Blue Mother-of-Pearl Dial (no image available in the archives)

Sales breakdown (1998–2006):

Total: 74 pieces

1998: 4 | 1999: 7 | 2000: 4 | 2001: 10 | 2002: 8 | 2003: 12 | 2004: 8 | 2005: 12 | 2006: 9

With only 11 examples produced, the pink gold version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25820 is the second rarest, following the tantalum-platinum variant.

This model features a blued mother-of-pearl dial, which beautifully offsets the warm tones of the pink gold hands and hour markers.

After a long period of relative discretion from the 1990s through the 2010s, pink gold has gradually returned to the spotlight – most notably with the launch of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26574OR in 2015.

Sales breakdown (1998–2004):

Total: 11 pieces

1998: 1 | 2002: 5 | 2004: 5