\r\n\u003C/p>",[328,332,336,339,342,346,350,353,357,361],{"fileReference":329,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":330,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":331,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--fe96b8c6-10e4-47f2-9e01-52079e1c8b47/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 72","On this chronograph watch by Louis Audemars, made circa 1866, the push-piece opens the cover and starts the chronograph. At 5 o'clock, a tiny push-piece (circled in red) blocks the chronograph function when the cover is closed.",{"fileReference":333,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":334,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":335,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--b81ffe93-351b-48a5-ac7f-c84ae39ecd2c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Robin Paris watch, circa 1840. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 528","The small disc placed on the knob of the bow is used to open the back of the watch without risking any cracking of the enamelled portrait of Napoleon. This device is commonly used for pocket watches. ",{"fileReference":337,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":102,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":338,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d625a666-7bd5-4300-8fc5-736c9c740aa1/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","To activate the chime on this watch attributed to Piguet Meylan, circa 1810, the user gently pulls the push-piece in the bow, rotates it a quarter turn and presses it lightly. ",{"fileReference":340,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":27,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":341,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--00126592-cbd2-4bcf-8c73-40ab35485b0c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Small movable screws, circled in red here, are placed under the chronograph push-pieces. When the cover is closed, they fit into small holes, also circled in red, thus preventing any accidental activation of the mechanism.",{"fileReference":343,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":344,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":345,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ebd02fd0-df9f-4196-b04d-1ae77de6ee8e/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 97.","On this timepiece, all that is required is to tip the bow backwards to select the time-setting mode. Jürgensen watch with split-seconds chronograph and jumping minutes counter in the centre, circa 1890. ",{"fileReference":347,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":348,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":349,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ac2c01d3-0766-4c75-8af4-e5eef9c6ddac/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Audemars Piguet Heritage, inv. 102.","This double hunter-type watch dating from the late 19th century displays the time on one side and the calendar on the other. To open the first cover, simply flip the bow to the opposite side and press the crown – and vice versa.",{"fileReference":351,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":27,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":352,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--218e0fca-361b-4e04-8217-bf2d38070599/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","When the cover is closed, it exerts pressure on a small push-piece located at 4 o'clock, thereby locking the winding mechanism. The exact purpose of this safety feature remains unclear. The two other push-pieces at 12 o'clock and 7:15 serve to adjust the retrograde calendar. ",{"fileReference":354,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":355,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":356,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--4f24164d-7ba8-445f-ad4d-f051e12cd1ea/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Bourdin watch, circa 1860. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 424.","To the right of the “Paris” engraving, a key mechanism enables the owner to adjust the watch's movement using a simple key – an operation usually reserved for watchmakers – marked “A” for avance (gain) and ‘R’ for retard (loss).",{"fileReference":358,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":359,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":360,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--a6f586a7-b996-4c9d-ab1e-25a7494b617c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Pocket watch by Gironde, circa 1895. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 698.","Visible at 8:30, the small marker used to set and adjust the alarm is driven by the rotating bezel. As for the push-pieces, the one on the crown opens the back of the watch, while the one at 11:15 serves to set the time. ",{"fileReference":362,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":363,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":364,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--2ce6e2fb-c275-43f2-a513-6a3919ec4882/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Minute repeater pocket watch, 1920. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 1736.","In 1920, to make it easier to activate the chime, Audemars Piguet replaced the trigger-piece with a movable notched bezel. At first glance, it is impossible to tell that this watch is a minute repeater. ",[84,85],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":367,":items":368,":itemsOrder":403,":type":86},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":369,"textcarousel":372},{"id":370,"linkDisabled":28,"type":66,"text":371,":type":68},"title-39565902c6","Water resistance and protection",{"text":373,"images":374,"imageControlIconColor":172,":type":82},"\u003Cp>Push-pieces and crowns connect the exterior to the interior of a watch – much like our ears, mouths and eyes connect us to the world. They are essential interfaces, yet inherently vulnerable, as they can also allow unwanted elements to enter. Unlike the human body, watches have no antibodies to defend themselves against intruders.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>From the late 19th century onwards, a number of inventions were developed to protect these sensitive components. In 1883, Alcide Droz & Fils filed a patent for dust-proof watches. Forty years later, in 1923, John Harwood presented the first water-resistant, crown-free selfwinding watch, which was set by rotating the bezel. At the time, the most common way to protect watches from dust and moisture was to screw the components together – a reliable system, provided each component was perfectly calibrated. The screw-down crown on the Rolex Oyster is undoubtedly the most famous example.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Today, water resistance often relies on synthetic rubber seals. Though first patented in 1897 (CH13807), their widespread use only began in the 1930s and 1940s.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Initially reserved for sports watches, water resistance gradually extended to classic timepieces by the 1940s. Not having to remove your watch to wash your hands is undeniably practical! In 1972, these two worlds came together with \u003Ca href=\"https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/model-5402-dial-variants\">the Royal Oak 5402\u003C/a>: a luxury sports watch water-resistant to 10 ATM (100 metres). Its water resistance was achieved through a combination of screw-down and gasket systems. For more, \u003Ca href=\"https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/article/the-first-royal-oak-cases\">see the dedicated article on the Royal Oak case\u003C/a>.\u003C/p>",[375,379,383,387,391,395,399],{"fileReference":376,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":377,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":378,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--aea511a1-36b8-40b6-9468-4529059f54d9/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Audemars Piguet workshops.","Before leaving the Audemars Piguet workshops, the water resistance of the watches is tested, first without the mechanism and then with it, as pictured here. ",{"fileReference":380,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":381,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":382,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ec575786-b1ff-45b4-afcb-3b001685266b/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","American variant of the patent, US307027A.","In 1883, Alcide Droz & Fils patented a watch case called l'imperméable (the water-resistant).",{"fileReference":384,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":385,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":386,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--289e45f2-856f-4040-a027-1f93be194cfc/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","John Harwood patent filed in 1923.","Just as in the 18th century with pocket watches, the first selfwinding wristwatches were designed to limit the risk of damaging the mechanism when winding. ",{"fileReference":388,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":389,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":390,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--46366f14-fcf4-4039-a299-fa3ab33338ca/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Journal suisse d’horlogerie et de bijouterie, 1935, no. 9-10, p. 29.","The first Rolex Oyster watches were only water-resistant when their crowns were fully screwed down. In the absence of a waterproof seal, the machining had to be totally accurate. ",{"fileReference":392,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":393,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":394,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--213e39c2-9bce-4b94-9062-b158d2c09faa/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","1. The cap 2. The seal in the recess 3. The pipe 4. The shoulder of the pipe 5. The six sides of the pipe 6. The winding stem 7. The sleeve","Diagram of a water-resistant screw-lock crown:",{"fileReference":396,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":397,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":398,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--ae29694d-cdaa-4ba3-a05a-8c5f8f901b1b/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Audemars Piguet Archives.","The crown of the Royal Oak Offshore Diver (15703) alone has five seals, a spring and a screw thread. ",{"fileReference":400,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":401,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":402,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e66865c2-952b-4221-bd27-7d88b8f33ce1/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak (5402), 1972.","The oversized gasket is compressed between the bezel and the case middle by eight hexagonal screws passing through the entire case. A side opening connects the crown to the mechanism. ",[84,85],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":405,":items":406,":itemsOrder":437,":type":86},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":407,"textcarousel":410},{"id":408,"linkDisabled":28,"type":66,"text":409,":type":68},"title-647a331799","Forbidden corrections",{"text":411,"images":412,"imageControlIconColor":81,":type":82},"\u003Cp>Water resistance is not the only challenge posed by crowns and push-pieces. Another critical concern for watchmakers is untimely adjustments – interventions made while delicate mechanical operations are underway. These can cause serious damage to the movement.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>For instance, setting the date on a 1920s calendar watch while a tiny pin is actively advancing the date or moon phase forward can easily break the mechanism. Over the past half-century, systems have become more secure, but caution remains essential. The golden rule: never force a corrector. If it resists, it’s not the right moment to operate it.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>In the absence of a user manual, a simple method is to turn the hands through a full 24-hour cycle and observe when the indications change. Then, make adjustments at the opposite time, so if the date jumps at 23:45, it is safest to use the corrector around midday.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Another forbidden adjustment is setting the time on a minute repeater while it is chiming. This can damage key components such as the minute wheel, the beak of the minutes piece, or the striking studs.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>But how can users be aware of these golden rules? For striking watches, watchmakers have long relied on the owner’s horological knowledge, the salesperson’s guidance, or careful reading of the instruction manual. Yet, unfortunate mishandlings still occur.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>In 2016, Audemars Piguet introduced a unique safety feature: when the watch is chiming, it becomes almost impossible to pull out the crown to set the time. This discreet innovation protects the movement without affecting user experience.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Such safety features are important steps in the quest for ergonomics. They are rarely communicated, barely noticeable to the wearer and yet essential. As in other fields, ergonomics only becomes noticeable when it is lacking. A well-designed chair moulds itself to the shape of the body so seamlessly that one forgets it is there. The same is true of a well-designed watch.\u003C/p>",[413,417,421,425,429,433],{"fileReference":414,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":415,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":416,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--b0cad465-5900-4d59-89d2-d91c08584279/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 11SMV, 1924. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 1227.","This mechanism is capable of reading the time and reproducing it audibly. During the chiming process, it is strictly forbidden to set the time, as this could seriously damage the movement. ",{"fileReference":418,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":419,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":420,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--7d7c398e-55e1-4173-8583-0c53dcf075ed/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Perpetual calendar pocket watch, 1952. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 1053.","In this Audemars Piguet pocket watch, the day jumps between 11.15 pm and 11.40 pm, the date at midnight, the month around 12.10 pm and the moon at 1 am. It is therefore recommended to set the watch around noon. ",{"fileReference":422,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":423,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":424,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--44bc513b-af65-4210-b5a2-17eb67b926b3/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 10GHSMQ, 1920. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 183.","It takes a trained eye to distinguish the fingers and tiny pins driving the calendar information in this movement. These components would break if the date were set at the wrong time. ",{"fileReference":426,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":427,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":428,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d0401f5e-28a5-4f21-aadb-56267d37e53f/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 2120/2800, 1978. Audemars Piguet Heritage.","Perpetual calendar Calibre 2120/2800 was designed to allow adjustments to be made at any time without any risk to the mechanism.",{"fileReference":430,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":431,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":432,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--35748c54-e2eb-4180-adba-da051a32c530/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie (RD#1), 2016, Ref. 26576","Equipped with Calibre 2937, this model incorporates a safety device designed to prevent the time from being set while the chime is sounding. ",{"fileReference":434,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":435,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":436,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--03c1dadf-f71c-418f-b7fa-054115e18d22/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 2937, 2016. Audemars Piguet Heritage","Calibre 2937 is equipped with an invisible yet essential protection feature: once the repeater mechanism is activated, pulling out the crown becomes virtually impossible. ",[84,85],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":439,":items":440,":itemsOrder":484,":type":86},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":441,"textcarousel":444},{"id":442,"linkDisabled":28,"type":66,"text":443,":type":68},"title-818d8a844d","Calendar adjustments",{"text":445,"images":446,"imageControlIconColor":81,":type":82},"\u003Cp>Perpetual calendar watches are a particularly interesting example. This highly valued complication was designed to display the correct date for at least a century, accounting for the varying lengths of months – 30 31, 28 – and even February 29 every four years.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Yet many owners of perpetual calendar watches also own multiple timepieces. Unless it is a selfwinding model kept running on a watch winder, it will eventually stop when worn. As a result, the calendar indications must be corrected each time it is restarted – a task that demands time, dexterity and technical understanding.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Manual adjustment begins with locating the discreet correctors on the case middle – often tiny, and sometimes up to five. Using the supplied tool, each corrector must be activated in a specific order, the correct number of times, and with care to avoid slipping, at the risk of scratching the case. Ironically, it is rare for a perpetual calendar watch to display the correct date – despite being designed to do so for a century.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>To mark its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet developed a simple and intuitive all-in-one crown correction system. This innovation allows users to adjust all calendar indications, set the time, and wind the watch using only the crown. Inside, several mechanisms interact depending on the crown’s rotation and pull-out position, offering four distinct configurations. While the explanation may seem complex, the operation is remarkably smooth.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>With this system, one can safely bet that perpetual calendars will now show the correct date far more often.\u003C/p>",[447,450,454,457,461,465,469,473,477,480],{"fileReference":448,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":27,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":449,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--414b556a-9303-452f-b05b-3b24b79f0857/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Unveiled in 2025 to mark Audemars Piguet's 150th anniversary, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 26674) requires neither correctors around the case nor a correction tool, as everything is done via the crown.",{"fileReference":451,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":452,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":453,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1c0747e3-7e4b-4151-a469-6e2903989bd8/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 7138, 2025.","All the watch's functions are adjusted via the crown. The watchmakers have utilised not only the three classic positions of the pull-out piece, but also the direction of rotation, in order to distribute the various functions. ",{"fileReference":455,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":452,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":456,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--541abf59-28f5-4a18-bcef-466b62b96f57/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Each position of the crown activates a different part of the mechanism. In positions 2 and 2', turning it in one direction or the other activates other functions. ",{"fileReference":458,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":459,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":460,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1abae3e7-6b50-4de1-bdb4-7b81ead79fcc/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, 2025, Ref. 26494.","In a rare attribute for a perpetual calendar watch, the sides of the case do not feature any correctors.",{"fileReference":462,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":463,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":464,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--545ee4fc-1c5f-439b-a13d-3550099f168f/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Grande Complication pocket watch, 1885. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 591.","The perpetual calendar adjustment levers are visible at 10 o'clock, 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. ",{"fileReference":466,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":467,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":468,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--5e17ab24-e240-48df-bad9-799879ed283a/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Full calendar watch, pre-model 180, 1930. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 1770.","The tiny moon corrector to the left of the crown stands out for its discretion and delicate operation. ",{"fileReference":470,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":471,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":472,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--e9711960-c107-44b8-b7e2-3b45c182877b/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Perpetual calendar watch, 1990, Ref. 25681. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 1125.","Two correctors stand out from the case middle. ",{"fileReference":474,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":475,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":476,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--180c5eae-ad59-46f3-891a-8f0eea654182/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar watch, 1984, ref. 25579. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 1579.","To enable calendar adjustments, jewellers carefully contoured and framed the correction push-pieces. ",{"fileReference":478,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":397,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":479,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--310c122c-a453-4d92-8948-918a2329f415/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Before the advent of computers and smartphones, instruction manuals were essential for adjusting the settings on a perpetual calendar, particularly the date and moon phases. ",{"fileReference":481,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":482,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":483,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--2ef942a5-e985-4f1d-9f87-985882503006/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Calibre 2141/2806, 1996. Audemars Piguet Archives.","Each of the four elements that emerge from the movement corresponds to a calendar function – day, month, date and moon phase – and is directly linked to the correctors arranged around the case. ",[84,85],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":486,":items":487,":itemsOrder":516,":type":86},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":488,"textcarousel":491},{"id":489,"linkDisabled":28,"type":66,"text":490,":type":68},"title-9ae99fd042","RD#5 push-pieces",{"text":492,"images":493,"imageControlIconColor":81,":type":82},"\u003Cp>Since its invention in the 19th century, the chronograph has undergone numerous technical developments – split-seconds hands, jumping seconds, column wheels, cams, vertical clutches, flyback functions, selfwinding systems and laptimers. Each innovation has enriched this emblematic complication.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>However, one element remained unchanged: the reset function. The force and precision required to return all hands to 12 o'clock in a fraction of a second is colossal – especially considering the scale. Patented by Adolphe Nicole in 1844, the traditional system relies on a hammer striking a heart-shaped cam, instantly rotating it back to zero when the push-piece is pressed.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>In the late 2010s, Audemars Piguet began to rethink the push-piece itself: could it be smaller, more sensitive – like a smartphone button? In short, more ergonomic. One conclusion quickly became clear - the system inherited from Nicole needed a complete reimagining.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>On the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin Chronograph RD#5, the reset mechanism works differently. Behind the low-travel, low-force push-pieces winds a small spring that tightens as the chronograph hands advance. When the push-piece is pressed, the stored energy is released, instantly resetting the hands – without requiring additional force. Imagine a child on a swing. Once pulled back, he or she will swing forward effortlessly when released. This new chronograph works in the same way – energy is stored in advance and then released at the right moment.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Smaller, more responsive and requiring less force, the new push-piece marks a major leap forward. What might seem like a minor refinement, is, in fact, a major innovation – one that opens a new chapter in the history of the chronograph.\u003C/p>",[494,497,500,503,506,508,512],{"fileReference":495,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":27,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":496,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--76a28637-1a20-4fa4-88d1-b3be29af0851/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","The two push-pieces, known as ‘low-travel and low-force’ push-pieces, on the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin Chronograph RD#5 (Ref. 26545) are visible on either side of the crown.",{"fileReference":498,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":27,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":499,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--df246207-b62a-49e6-b5f8-58c5c03a2a30/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin Chronograph RD#5, 2025, Ref. 26545.",{"fileReference":501,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":499,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":502,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--c91ee203-cfdd-4040-9829-5dae9d4be937/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Due to its small size, the push-piece limits the travel and improves responsiveness when starting. It requires less pressure, as energy is stored in the mechanism beforehand. ",{"fileReference":504,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":499,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":505,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--37abcb84-f467-496f-862b-03ec554251ba/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","As the seconds hand advances, the rack moves forward and winds the spring enabling resetting. After one revolution, the spring unwinds, and the process begins again. ",{"fileReference":504,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":499,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":507,":type":29},"The flyback function works on the same principle as the reset function, with one difference: the hand restarts instantly to measure successive times.",{"fileReference":509,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":510,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":511,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--f2cbe9dd-7324-463d-a61f-17ef45f4e5bf/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","A Guide to Complicated Watches by François Lecoultre, 1951, p. 29.","Published in 1951, this drawing illustrates the classic construction of chronographs in the 20th century. In the centre, one can see the heart piece (A), driven by a powerful hammer (B), enabling chronograph resetting.",{"fileReference":513,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":514,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":515,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--bf4cdf4c-d730-47c5-9828-d4726a8d9d01/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Le Chronographe by I. E. Lecoultre, 1894.","In the traditional system, the heart piece (C) carries the seconds hand and rotates slowly. The hammer (L) strikes it with great force to reset the hand to zero. ",[84,85],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":518,":items":519,":itemsOrder":548,":type":86},{"textcarousel":8,"title":8},{"title":520,"textcarousel":523},{"id":521,"linkDisabled":28,"type":66,"text":522,":type":68},"title-3ad1f360f6","Both simple and complicated",{"text":524,"images":525,"imageControlIconColor":81,":type":82},"\u003Cp>The perceived simplicity of a watch can sometimes conceal extraordinary mechanical complexity.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Unveiled in 2023, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4 is one of the most complicated watches in the world, with 40 functions, including 23 complications. This monumental undertaking mobilised five watchmakers, dozens of specialists, and required seven years of development.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>The aim was to create the most user-friendly and ergonomic ultra-complicated watch ever made. With a diameter under 42 mm, a weight of less than 180 g, and a remarkably legible dial grouping all calendar indications into apertures, this watch marks a milestone in the quest for ergonomic excellence.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Three crowns and three push-pieces are all that are needed to set all its functions. Each crown controls several different functions and is connected to a considerable number of components. Their sophisticated design has earned them the nickname “super crowns”. Take the one at 4 o'clock, for example, which controls four distinct functions:\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>• Advancing the month in sync with the year (clockwise rotation),\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>• Reversing the month in sync with the year (counterclockwise rotation),\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>• Flyback of the running chronograph (a press),\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>• Resetting the stopped chronograph (a press).\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>To secure the system, the chronograph cannot be activated while calendar corrections are underway.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Integrating so many functions into such a small space demanded exceptional ingenuity. The split-seconds mechanism was positioned at the same level as the oscillating weight to save thickness, and the dial itself serves as a bridge. The number of components was also reduced, with the movement performing all functions using just over 1,100 components.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>The name of this timepiece pays tribute to the 1899 "Universelle” pocket watch, a masterpiece featuring 19 complications. Weighing 600 grams, it incorporated 14 adjustment devices, including a crown, a trigger-piece, six levers and six push-pieces. Designed to showcase technical mastery, it was never intended for daily wear. Today, it is on display at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet.\u003C/p>",[526,530,534,537,540,544],{"fileReference":527,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":528,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":529,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--5b72fce1-0344-4222-b348-f68707f0ed0c/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, 2023, 26398.","This watch is one of the most complicated in the world and won the GPHG’s “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix in 2023.",{"fileReference":531,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":532,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":533,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--5a29b834-8ba0-468c-8787-e3c124740c10/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Illustration published in The Watch. Stories and Savoir-Faire, 2025, p. 204.","The 4 o'clock crown directly controls all the movement components shown here (chronograph and calendar). ",{"fileReference":535,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":528,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":536,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--665c4699-d184-4676-9583-4f077d63a548/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Each of the three push-pieces is engraved to indicate the function it controls. For example, a musical note corresponds to the chime.",{"fileReference":538,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":528,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":539,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--9f7fa27d-a22f-458f-8499-4844bcbfd7ab/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","The three “super crowns” located to the right of the dial all feature an integrated push-piece enabling them to perform several functions. ",{"fileReference":541,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":542,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":543,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--70cd9e4b-942f-4f2f-98d0-6e6fc40dd269/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","‘Universelle’ pocket watch, 1899. Audemars Piguet Heritage, Inv. 1713.","The Universelle comprises 19 complications in addition to the hours and minutes hands. Fourteen devices arranged around the case serve to activate and adjust the functions. ",{"fileReference":545,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":546,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":27,"title":547,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--d947c159-5202-4a0f-9c2e-93a9446108a0/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Photo of the Universelle watch prototype, 1899. Audemars Piguet Archives.","The Universelle prototype highlights the six levers used to set the date, striking modes, moon phase, day and month. ",[84,85],{"columnCount":5,"gridClassNames":6,"columnClassNames":550,":items":551,":itemsOrder":569,":type":86},{"twoimages":8,"text":8,"title":8},{"title":552,"text":555,"twoimages":558},{"id":553,"linkDisabled":28,"type":66,"text":554,":type":68},"title-7e3c19b547","A new family of complications",{"text":556,":type":557},"\u003Cp>Up until the late 19th century, innovation in watchmaking focused mainly on complications and precision. But with the advent of the wristwatch, a new frontier emerged: ergonomics. Water resistance, autonomy, automatic winding, shock resistance, lightness, legibility, acoustic quality – and, above, user friendliness.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Giulio Papi, Director of Watch Conception at Audemars Piguet, is advocating for the formal recognition of a new category of complications dedicated to ergonomics.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>"To encourage the adoption of innovative ideas, we could collaborate with watchmaking cultural committees to create – alongside existing categories such as chronometric precision, astronomy, time-measuring functions and automata – a new category of complications: mechanised ergonomics. Although this represents a major challenge, the initiative could enrich the watchmaking landscape at an academic level and open up new creative perspectives for future generations. "\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>Behind this proposal lies a conviction: that the considerable technical innovations enhancing the user experience deserve visibility and recognition equal to those that push the boundaries of time measurement. For while ergonomics is often invisible, it is essential.\u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp> \u003C/p>\r\n\u003Cp>\u003Ci>Audemars Piguet Heritage Team, October 2025\u003C/i>\u003C/p>","apchronicles/components/text",{"images":559,":type":568},[560,564],{"fileReference":561,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":562,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":81,"title":563,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--dc03ec65-3151-4330-8909-e26d19942c8f/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","If there was a category dedicated to ergonomic complications, its sensitive push-pieces could be recognised as a complication in their own right.","Although highly innovative, the RD#5 remains faithful to the classic definition of a chronograph. ",{"fileReference":565,"mobileFileReference":74,"caption":566,"altText":27,"assetPagePath":27,"disableSharing":28,"imageControlIconColor":81,"title":567,":type":29},"/adobe/dynamicmedia/deliver/dm-aid--1a5abc7e-c01a-49db-bc1e-ec2247e0c222/ap-chronicles-image.webp?preferwebp=true","Illustration from The Watch. Stories and Savoir-faire. 2025, p. 565","As Director of Watch Conception at Audemars Piguet, Giulio Papi has played a central role in the creation of numerous legendary models. 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